Why??

G`day ,

it sounds like you ahead from last week .

Not sure why but i have the idea you`ve only worked on the pass side ( left ) carb ?

If the case the drive side carb should still have been getting fuel .

They will run on just one carb not well but will keep going .

If the bug was stopping the left carb working and it was stopping then that is probably saying the right one isn`t working .

A reason i think this is the way the pipe work is , the right carb would still be fuelled even if a bug was in the left orifice .

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Originally Posted by Davo

And that's why you always plug and block and cover things up when you leave them. I guess you'll do that from now on! :p

They are a wonderfully simple design, though, aren't they? That's one reason they used them. They are also sort of "self-cleaning" in the way the needle moves up out of the the jet.

I've got a factory tuning manual and a Haynes manual for them but I can't scan them at the moment, otherwise I'd put them up since they're both long out of print.

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Compare the simplicity of it to a twin/quad choke carby (especially the later pollution ones wtih anti-diesel solenoids etc).... And you'll wonder why anyone would bother with anything but. Why on earth would something crawl in and make a nest where there is something like petrol there :confused: :o Must admit, you can turn on almost any outside tap this time of year and you'll flush a spider out though....

It's running much smoother, idling better and now pops a lot on the over-run. I'm guessing that's down to the soldered closed poppet valve. I'll have to do the other carby. Am I stupid enough to pull the other carby off :wacko: Yep :Rolling:

seeya,
Shane L.

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Originally Posted by PLR

G`day ,

it sounds like you ahead from last week .

Not sure why but i have the idea you`ve only worked on the pass side ( left ) carb ?

If the case the drive side carb should still have been getting fuel .

They will run on just one carb not well but will keep going .

If the bug was stopping the left carb working and it was stopping then that is probably saying the right one isn`t working .

A reason i think this is the way the pipe work is , the right carb would still be fuelled even if a bug was in the left orifice .

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Yeah that's right ... Suprisingly it doesn't really drive on only one carby. maybe at full throttle you'd have enough to roll along at a slow speed (your driving 4cylinders as pumps as well as trying to propel the car). Offroad I reckon you'd be stranded if a carby diaphram died given the way it drives on one carby. I'd say it crawled into the "open" fuel line and the car and got pushed straight into the orifice behind the needle and seat as soon as the fuel pump started.

seeya,
Shane L.

Shane - I'll have to do the other carby. Am I stupid enough to pull the other carby off :wacko: Yep :Rolling:


Gavin - Don't forget to add the spider!!!! (and cash that cheque or mail it in)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

Compare the simplicity of it to a twin/quad choke carby (especially the later pollution ones wtih anti-diesel solenoids etc).... And you'll wonder why anyone would bother with anything but. Why on earth would something crawl in and make a nest where there is something like petrol there :confused: :o Must admit, you can turn on almost any outside tap this time of year and you'll flush a spider out though....

It's running much smoother, idling better and now pops a lot on the over-run. I'm guessing that's down to the soldered closed poppet valve. I'll have to do the other carby. Am I stupid enough to pull the other carby off :wacko: Yep :Rolling:

seeya,
Shane L.

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No, probably not. I've had those soldered shut without that problem.

Maybe it's got something to do with only the one carby being rebuilt???? :eek:

(Now I can't wait until the next instalment!)

Anyway, again and again, people have trouble with these things because they're trying to tune carbies that are too worn to be tuned, and they also never seem to do the job in the right order, so they tend to chase around problems, trying to guess what's wrong. And then the original twin-carby setup gets a reputation for being difficult. I reckon when you get the other one rebuilt and then tune the both of them you'll be all sorted.

But I should watch what I write, as I've got two new carbies on a new engine that I haven't started up yet and no doubt there will some mystery problem to solve.

The best comment I've read about these carbies is that once they're set up, they should be left alone, and that people can't help themselves so they fool around and then mess things up again.

I don't get it .... The old Rangie is now flying .... It's running incredibly well. Better than it's ever ran before........... So that would be because ... um... well I mucked around with the carby but didn't actually fix anything ... It doesn't seem to be running super lean now .... light throttle provides plenty of acceleration and no leaning out/hesitation like before.

I can only assume the old diaphragm was somehow weeping air. 'Cos I sure didn't change or adjust anything :wasntme: Even a leaking poppet valve (though it didn't appear to be leaking) should only effect closed a closed throttle... Once you crack the accelerator open after all, it should have no effect.

It's always good when things fix themselves.

seeya,
Shane L.

But take the credit for it anyway. :D

Yesterday's site crash wiped out my helpful reply, which I can't remember at all. But make sure you do the other carby, then take the time to tune them properly.

I was considering an Edelbrock 500 but out in the bush these Strombergs would be far easier to troubleshoot and strip, which is no doubt why they used them in the first place. This type of carby also has a "self-cleaning" ability because of the way the needle moves up and down in the jet.

I remember from yesterday that PhilipA wrote that after his were set up, he didn't touch them for several years. Sounds great to me!