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Thread: Lt230 Transfer Case Advice

  1. #1
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    Lt230 Transfer Case Advice

    So I've picked up a gasket set for Jeremy's t-case to finally cure the oil leaks. I'm not looking to do anything major as everything seems to be in reasonably good nick, just need to stop a few oil leaks.

    Primary problems are the top cover and the rear main seal, which I've not long done, so not terribly pleased with that, but you get that.

    The gasket kit came complete with several gaskets, oil seals, o-rings, fibrous washers, felt washers etc. I probably won't get them all in, but I really should get as many as I can done.

    Considering I can get to the main leaks and fix them without removing the t-case from the truck, I'm hesitant to drop it out, especially since I have limited time and space to work.

    But I'm not beyond suggestions. The truck has done just shy of 200,000kms so should I just drop the t-case and rebuild? I've pretty much only got a weekend to get it done, it has to be back on the road Monday for the school run, it is the daily driver after all.

    Or should I just leave it in the vehicle and take care of the two gaskets and the one seal that really need doing?

    If I drop the case, how long should I expect to spend on it before getting the truck back on the road?

    Honestly I'd love to drop the case and replace everything the gasket kit came with, but I've never worked on these ones before and time really is of the essence.

    Suggestions?

  2. #2
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    You could remove and reinstall in a weekend, but would be an advantage if you had already done one.

    Heavy.

    Basic sealing easy to do, however, centre gear shaft may be leaking and require more work than anticipated.

    Leave it on and just re-seal what you can - if no leaks then fine - if it still leaks anywhere then you know you have to go further.

    Find a mechanic near your place of work and see if they can do it in a day?

    PS if you have already done the rear seal and still leaking then maybe you do have centre shaft leak close by.

  3. #3
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    If you only have a seal/gasket kit, technically you don't have enough parts to strip and rebuild it.

    At the very very least you would need a new crush tube for the intermediate gear, and beyond that centre diff shims and a new locknut would be wise. Then you are into bearings.

    I could remove, build and refit one in a (long) day I think, but I have done a few

    In your case I would just do what you can in the car.

  4. #4
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    Thanks, I didn't necessarily mean a complete rebuild, it just seems so wrong to have bought the entire gasket set for $10 more than a rear main seal (not to mention the top gasket) and not use all the parts. However I have indeed got the seals and gaskets I do need to fix the couple of drips that are appearing on my driveway.

    Maybe at a later date I'll pull the box and do a thorough rebuild, but for the time being, it's driving fine so not necessary.

  5. #5
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    Damn tapatalk, didn't see the other reply, I believe the rear seal went a second time because of other leaks, I reckon the seal went dry and died.

    Hell it might not even be the rear seal, I did have to squirt a bit of wd40 into the handbrake cable cos it was sticking, maybe it's just made it's way out at the end and the drips I've seen were nothing more than wd40 exodussing the hand brake drum.

    Either way, I've got the seal (even if not necessary) and the gaskets I do need to fix up other leaks so I'll be getting stuck into it this weekend.

    Then I have to grit my teeth and take a look at the final leak, which I believe to be the rear main seal on the crankshaft.... not looking forward to that one.

  6. #6
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    lt230 leaks

    In my experience of the lt230 t/case more often than not it is the intermediate shaft orings that leak, making it look like the input seal. the t/case has to removed to replace these orings. If you are going to do seals I would advise to remove and replace input seal and intermediate orings.
    As well as both ouput seals. Do it once do it right.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by landrover dave View Post
    In my experience of the lt230 t/case more often than not it is the intermediate shaft orings that leak, making it look like the input seal. the t/case has to removed to replace these orings. If you are going to do seals I would advise to remove and replace input seal and intermediate orings.
    As well as both ouput seals. Do it once do it right.
    Unfortunately it's not just the orings normally.we have machined a few cases to bush them. With the original poster needing the car back together fast this is not a viable option although I agree it is a better idea.

  8. #8
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    I'd be interested in some information, photos, of the machining process. For example, does it have to be 'line bored' by coming through the opposing hole. If not line bored does the machinist use a mill bit of the exact size and come down on it once aligned, or is a smaller cutter used and the casing rotated against the cutter. Then, is the sleeve press fitted, loctited in anyway? I've purchased the kit with a steel insert and have a mill, but no spare casing if I stuff it up.

    I did wonder of what benefit the steel sleeve provides. If the intermediate shaft can flog the alloy casing, then wont the shaft just carry the new sleeve with it and flog a bigger hole? When I first started considering this problem I wondered about a shaft carrier bolted to the casing.

  9. #9
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    Here you go. This is some info when we did our first one. I broke the first case as you can see in the second link below so be careful.

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/gclro-memb...ml#post1945299

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/gclro-memb...ml#post1947864

  10. #10
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    Thanks Psimpson7, great stuff, and another thread worth reading end to end.

    From the photos its obviously not just a single hole but also requires a second cut to take the top hat. My machine is not CNC and I am progressively self taught - asked my local TAFE about doing their courses and was told I would need to be an apprentice (at 57 hmmm), so looks like plenty of trial runs would be in order.

    See you went for a mild press fit in the end - and no sealant?

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