Thread: RRC starter not operating

Sounds like you have a high resistant joint somewhere. Check your terminals and clamps. Check your -ve ccable on your chassis and motor.

Is the earth cable between the starter motor top bolt and the chassis fitted contact points clean and tight. If this earth cable is missing the starter tends not to fully engage.

Thanks, I have checked the earths out with a multimeter even han a temporary earth from the starter body to the chassis but no go

what about the positive terminal. Sometimes when you are testing with a multlimeter you are not testing under a load. You might have 12v on the positive on the starter, but if you have a lug or clamp that has high resistance because they not tight enough or corroded between faces you loose your volts.

I too have replaced starters and then went to change a battery only to find the +ve terminal was cactus. Then checked the starter that I pulled out to find it still worked, and i spent the best part of a day and 450 dollars on a starter.

I have been know to check a starter using a pair of pliers across the solenoid on the starter itself.


My money is on the +ve termial on the battery.

If you have got a multimeter (digital I hope) it much better to do a voltage drop test as this tests the system under load. Set the meter to DC volts and if the meter is not auto ranging on something suitable for 12 volts say 0-20.

If you suspect the positive side put one end on the battery + terminal and the other on the starter main terminal and attemp to crank the engine. An assitant may be necessary. Any reading higher than 0.5 volts is not acceptable it means too much resistance somwhere. Move the lead back towards the battery and retest to pinpint the problem. Like manofaus says it could be the terminal.

Do the same between the neg terminal and the engine block altough this should be OK as you put a lead across it.

By the way high resistance joints get warm.

A digital volt meter will just read minus volts and analogue meter will try and bend the needle back the wrong way if the connections are the wrong way around which is why I always use a digital for this test.

Make sure you have got 12 volts at the starter main terminal when you attempt to crank it as well to check for broken wires in the main positive lead open circuiting under load.

I'd be thinking the brushes / commutator are knackered. The solid click says the solenoid is fine, so high current is flowing to the motor itself, the lights dimming means theres a huge current drain. The windings on the commutator are most likely fried, and the motor can't produce any torque. Or at a stretch the permanent magnets in the case have been known to break free and jam the motor completely.

Sorted, I should have posted last Saturday.

The positive cable from the Battery direct to the starter had oxidised in the crimped lug at the starter end, replaced the lug and no more problems

Glad to hear you got it sorted, I've not long replaced my starter and the main 12v and earth cables. The starter was only $150 so it's great you didn't have to fork for that.