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Thread: Air to springs

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Air to springs

    Plan on changing the air suspension to springs on my RRC 93 Vogue SE. I have sourced some used springs that will suit a 93 and have a couple of queries. Has been a lot of discussion about air to springs on this site but I can't find any information that I need.

    First query: two of the springs are a heavier gauge than the other two. Are the heavy gauge springs the front or the back? (in fact there is also a slight difference in height of the lighter gauge pair with one about half a coil lower than the other)

    Second query: I only have the springs. What sort of other bits and pieces (bolts, screws, brackets etc) will I need to fit them?

    Welcome any advice.

    John

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Don't do it. Air is better and vogues with working eas are worth a lot more.

  3. #3
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    x 2 - good advice from Dougal
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  4. #4
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    The heavier longer ones are the back and the lighter ones are the front.

    The RH front is longer because the battery and driver are there.
    REgards Philip A

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    The heavier longer ones are the back and the lighter ones are the front.

    The RH front is longer because the battery and driver are there.
    REgards Philip A
    I put the longer springs on the left, this makes the vehicle sit more level on cambered roads.
    All my vehicles are like this from factory.

  6. #6
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    From AIR to those crude metal coily things ?

    - Philistine... !


    James in Gosnells.
    The Lady Sarah, a '95 Vogue SE with working EAS...

  7. #7
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    Damn I am feeling really bad now about changing.

    The problem that prompted the idea to switch was that the suspension suddenly went down to the bump stops. The LR repair men couldn't read from the system what the fault was as they didn't have the required add on to their diagnostic system. Compressor and valves still work so I rigged a box and tapped into the system and can now raise/lower each corner independently.

    Trouble is there is a leak somewhere on the left so that over a week both left front and rear are significantly lower compared to right side. I can pump them up but it is becoming annoying.

    Haven't searched for a leak yet, but while contemplating how to start checking the springs became available. Seemed like the easier fix.

  8. #8
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    Here is the solution to all the electronic side problems: RSW EAS Unlocksuite

    Build a cable (or pay an electronics workshop to do it) and you can plug a laptop straight in. Calibrate/change all the heights, read errors etc.
    Just one point. Replace the 15k resistor in the schematic with a 3k-5k resistor.

  9. #9
    pibby is offline Master Silver Subscriber
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    dougal - where'd you get the cable end from?

    thanks,
    brett.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Here is the solution to all the electronic side problems: RSW EAS Unlocksuite

    Build a cable (or pay an electronics workshop to do it) and you can plug a laptop straight in. Calibrate/change all the heights, read errors etc.
    Just one point. Replace the 15k resistor in the schematic with a 3k-5k resistor.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by pibby View Post
    dougal - where'd you get the cable end from?

    thanks,
    brett.
    I hacked up a spare EAS kicker lead.

    But simply splicing in the wiring connector of your choice behind the TTS plug is a very valid option.

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