From memory me thinks the diffs are on the other side on a P38.
I have picked up an 81 2 door. Currently it has the carbie 3.5 with what I think is an LT77 and some form of LT230.
I have a 95 P38 with a 4.6 and ZF4HP24 auto. The car is past it but I would like to use it for an auto conversion for the 2 door.
Apart from the ECU's for the GEMS 4.6 and ZF4HP24 which I am confident I can get around with a few aftermarket trick boxes, what other issues might I bump into? Transmission coolers and the floor pan I can handle also.
Will the HP24 bolt up to a LT230 or do I need a spacer or some sort of adaptor plate, nothing fouls the transfer case outputs given they are the opposite side to the P38 box? Does it all fit? Its not too long? I have to investigate what's driving the speedo.
Or is it much easier to just get a D1/RRC 3.9 HP22 auto and swap it that way?
2007/2002/2000/1994/1993/1988/1987/1985/1984/1981/1979/1973 Range Rover 1986 Wadham Stringer
and a Nissan Cube............
South Australia.
From memory me thinks the diffs are on the other side on a P38.
yes they are on opposite sides on the classic/P38. I am hoping to bolt up the LT230 transfer case allready in my classic behind the ZF4HP24 from the P38, I haven't had a chance to get under both cars and look in detail so I am unsure if anything will foul the autobox having the props on the opposite side.
Then again i don't know if I need an adaptor plate either.
2007/2002/2000/1994/1993/1988/1987/1985/1984/1981/1979/1973 Range Rover 1986 Wadham Stringer
and a Nissan Cube............
South Australia.
My Classic has a TD5 and 4HP24 (not done by me) but retains the BW Viscous Coupling. The 4HP24 is apparently a wee bit longer (1/2"?) than the 22, but I can't comment on the BW vs LT230 dimensions
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
The ZF will bolt up BUT its electronic controlled so you'll need the auto ECU. This takes inputs from the engine ECU (and probably others) so you'll need to run the 4.6 with all the injection etc. This will also require the fuel system incl tank/pump as it senses tank pressure, fuel level and other stuff as part of the system.
So essentially, transplant the entire elec system from the P38 (incl dash) and you'll have a starting point. Integrated security systems mean you need all the ECU's otherwise it won't work together and you'll have a crap load of errors.
There's a heap of security on the Motronic ECU P38 but yours should be an earlier unit I think.
Easier to get a D1 4HP22 and maybe rebuild with 24 internals. The 4HP22E P38/D2 version can have 24 internals, not sure about the hyd version.
Fantastic! it will bolt up! thats what I like to hearI was assuming it would given the same boxes used in the disco.
the crazy plan is to run the auto with its ECU, and I have had a look at the diagrams for it and it should work with just the GEMS engine ECU, and be happy without the BECM/cluster. I am looking at getting a mobilise module to enable the GEMS ECU to run without the BECM.
hmmm now you have me worried - I have run the P38 before on a fuel pump stuffed into a plastic jerry can with the return line stuffed in as well so I thought I would have been fine to just have a higher pressure pump in the classic's fuel tank.
Im hoping to get away with just the GEMS engine ECU and auto ECU, with the aim being to not have to buy an engine/autobox for the project.
2007/2002/2000/1994/1993/1988/1987/1985/1984/1981/1979/1973 Range Rover 1986 Wadham Stringer
and a Nissan Cube............
South Australia.
I'm not 100% on the GEMS stuff but the THOR (and I'm talking from a D2 base) needs all the ECUs even if piggybacking to work. The elec auto needs the SLABS ECU which supplies the speed inputs from ABS sensors and also make TC/ABS work. Plus the elec auto has a different connection to the hyd. You may also need to change the output extension shaft and/or the input gear depending on the source of the transfer and the transfer hi ratio may be not ideal, again depending on the source.
The only system I've seen that will make it work is the compushift system. Someone here does sell it but Ashcrofts also have it and will have a heap of info available. It'll adjust just about every parameter as well as allowing paddle shifting etc.
How are you getting on with this project? Do you need any more help?
Either GEMS or Thor transplants are no problem now, with stand-alone operation available for both of them.
You can certainly use the electronic gearbox and controller with the GEMS, and we have several clients who have done it. The Thor electronic gearbox looks possible, and indeed there is one in progress now. However we have yet to see it run.
I have too many projects on the go and I just moved house, but the 81 2 door ended up with engine and auto from a 75 2 door that got it from a 93/94 disco.
2007/2002/2000/1994/1993/1988/1987/1985/1984/1981/1979/1973 Range Rover 1986 Wadham Stringer
and a Nissan Cube............
South Australia.
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