Another ignition module failure?

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Originally Posted by 83rangie

The original banana shaped 4 pin ignition modules were actually made by GM I thought?
I honestly would've thought they'd be ok.

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The GM ones should be good, but I wouldn't call them original. Mine had the lucas item like this: LAND ROVER DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION MODULE DISCOVERY RANGE CLASSIC DEFENDER STC1184 LUCAS | Miami British

I went for the genuine Bosch as I wanted to guarantee eliminating the module as the problem. The known safe and good option.
There were enough stories about dodgy off-brand modules that if my problem persisted or got worse after the swap I'd be going around in circles still.

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Originally Posted by 83rangie

The original banana shaped 4 pin ignition modules were actually made by GM I thought?
I honestly would've thought they'd be ok.

GM HEI Ignition Module Engine Works Megafire High Performance Ignition Module GM | eBay

I'd be looking at the pickup/hall effect sensor in the dizzy maybe?
As the vac advance moves, the wires to the pickup move with it, and fatigue/break over time.

Maybe that's the issue, or the pickup is going faulty.
What about the coil, is it still original?

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Yes, should work. I have (and trust) the BOSCH unit I bought from B-U. Runs smooother and no dramas in setting up.
People are welcome to pay $41 "shipping" for something that is'nt any better, IMHO.... :o

Personally, I object to the obvious postage profit.


Yes, the wires can fatigue and/or the coil go open-circuit, not at often as the LUCAS module running out of smoke.

Change the module first, if problem persists, then look at the pickup.

Either way, I'd steer clear of the BOSCH type modules on various sites... read the fine print, they only look like and are 'like', (but are NOT) the genuine article.
I'm sure B/U will have some thoughts on the probable condition of the dizzy cap and rotor arm. - Yours is still original ?
- And we all suggest you clean and tighten every electrical connection in sight.
- Don't forget the leads...

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Originally Posted by Dougal

The GM ones should be good, but I wouldn't call them original. Mine had the lucas item like this: LAND ROVER DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION MODULE DISCOVERY RANGE CLASSIC DEFENDER STC1184 LUCAS | Miami British

I went for the genuine Bosch as I wanted to guarantee eliminating the module as the problem. The known safe and good option.
There were enough stories about dodgy off-brand modules that if my problem persisted or got worse after the swap I'd be going around in circles still.

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Ahh, my mistake..... I was thinking of the earlier ignition amps. The ones which have the coil on top of them, bolted to the L/H wheel arch.

Those amps seem to have GM modules in them from original, as I'm positive a mates was original (and was a GM module).

They're also used on the Jag V12's from the mid 80's.
A mate has both vehicles, so it was interesting comparing the two side by side, when I helped him rebuild both of them.

The Jag amp casings, don't have the raised edges to hold the coil though.
Nor the threaded holes for the coil clamp.

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Originally Posted by 83rangie

Ahh, my mistake..... I was thinking of the earlier ignition amps. The ones which have the coil on top of them, bolted to the L/H wheel arch.

Those amps seem to have GM modules in them from original, as I'm positive a mates was original (and was a GM module).

They're also used on the Jag V12's from the mid 80's.
A mate has both vehicles, so it was interesting comparing the two side by side, when I helped him rebuild both of them.

The Jag amp casings, don't have the raised edges to hold the coil though.
Nor the threaded holes for the coil clamp.

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As I understand it the original setup was a lucas module on the distributor, this was retrofitted to a lucas setup remote mounted to the LH inner guard. My 93 had the lucas on the inner guard, but also showed evidence of the module originally being fitted to the distributor. The retrofit cables to move it to the guard were original style but zip-tied in afterwards with the original cable to the distributor there but hanging loose from the original loom.

But I don't see many V8 rangies, mine is the only one I've really paid attention to.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 83rangie

Ahh, my mistake..... I was thinking of the earlier ignition amps. The ones which have the coil on top of them, bolted to the L/H wheel arch.

Those amps seem to have GM modules in them from original, as I'm positive a mates was original (and was a GM module).

They're also used on the Jag V12's from the mid 80's.
A mate has both vehicles, so it was interesting comparing the two side by side, when I helped him rebuild both of them.

The Jag amp casings, don't have the raised edges to hold the coil though.
Nor the threaded holes for the coil clamp.

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I've never looked inside one of those casings so I never guessed what's inside. I usually see them on '84-'85 carb Rangies. I've replaced a few though with Bosch modules, just made my own heat sink and used a Bosch coil to match. The few Chev HEI modules I've come across in service haven't impressed me with their reliability compared to the Bosch ones though.

Last Century, the MOPAR electronic ignition modules on the Valiants (and Lean Burn Systems on my CM) had a pretty good name for reliability and tough service.
Only way I could affect mine was to get a pressure nozzle and force water into the dizzy, - literally . :o

Wonder if they still survive ? Or even be a viable replacement.- used a reluctor pickup similar to the Lucas / Bosch, AFAIR

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Originally Posted by superquag

Last Century, the MOPAR electronic ignition modules on the Valiants (and Lean Burn Systems on my CM) had a pretty good name for reliability and tough service.
Only way I could affect mine was to get a pressure nozzle and force water into the dizzy, - literally . :o

Wonder if they still survive ? Or even be a viable replacement.- used a reluctor pickup similar to the Lucas / Bosch, AFAIR

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I've used dozens of these Chrysler pickups to convert a wide range of dissies from points to Bosch 024 module powered HEI systems. The spiky rotor never wears out unless a butcher has been let loose near them, and the pickups from 4, 6 and 8 cylinder dissies are all pretty much interchangeable. My major source of spare pickup coils has been Sigmas. They tended to die early enough to not cook the wiring!

Cars I've converted using these pickups have included numberless P76 V8's, Toyota 2F and 3F engines, Nissan L20 and L28 engines, and sundry other cars with suitably sized dissies. Anything with a larger style Bosch points dissy can have a selection of various Bosch Valiant/Sigma bits fitted and made to run the Bosch module with very little machining. Lucas P76 V8 dissies can have the rare V8 Lucas electronic dissy bits from an early Valiant V8 fitted with almost no mods at all. In a fit of boredom I even machined two 4 cylinder rotors to nest over each other to make a V8 one. Worked fine.:)

Oh and I always binned the Mopar modules as they only run points coils and can't handle decent HEI stuff.

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Originally Posted by bee utey

I've never looked inside one of those casings so I never guessed what's inside. I usually see them on '84-'85 carb Rangies. I've replaced a few though with Bosch modules, just made my own heat sink and used a Bosch coil to match. The few Chev HEI modules I've come across in service haven't impressed me with their reliability compared to the Bosch ones though.

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Those Constant Energy Ignition Unit amps, were also in the first gen flapper EFI Rangie's too.
They have the 4 pin GM module, and a sealed resistor block inside them, with a zener diode and capacitor in there too.

The wires are usually white, Black/white x2 and black.
One was the pulsed coil ground, one for the tacho signal via the resistor block, and another pulsed ground for the computer to fire the injectors
also via the resistor block.

Another was the power for the module and coil 12v,
and also an earth.

Two more wires which plug in separately, were for the dissy pickup module.
They were in a shielded cable (with a braid around it), grounded to the amp casing.

They're surprisingly busy arrangements those CEI Amps.

Hi Guys,
Finally had a chance to get all the bits and do the Bosch conversion....and she still runs exactly the same....fires up and runs really rough, sounds like about 4 cylinders firing.
Interior of distributor is fine on visual inspection and clearances good. Cap is genuine, about 12 months old, no signs of arcing etc. Leads are Bosch, about 12 months old. Coil is probably original so ill throw on a spare I have and see if it makes a difference. Plugs look perfect with no soot etc which makes me wonder whether it is a fuel issue.....do these pumps ever die "slowly" ? I have had 2 fuel pumps die on my other 89 and they both just stopped dead.
Any suggestions welcome.
Cheers, Charles

Swapped in a new coil...no difference. This car has always fired up and run really roughly for a few seconds before stabilising and then running smoothly...any clues?