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Thread: Newbie buying a classic RR

  1. #1
    Kizz302 Guest

    Newbie buying a classic RR

    Hi all,

    Always wanted a Rangie since a kid and am interested page undoing a little simple off-roading, so started reading these forums to get an understanding of issues with them. So far I think I have a reasonable list -

    Oil leaks -
    Steering box
    Transfer case
    Front hub area

    Mechanical -
    Viscous clutch in transfer case on later models
    Slipped cylinder liners
    EFI issues (nit sure exactly what though)

    Electrical -
    Ignition system?
    Interior heater fan?
    Electric seats?

    Rust -
    Rear upper tailgate
    Footwells
    The frames where water is sprayed from wheels?
    I'm thinking rust I've read about is in wet areas of the USA and the uk, so may not be an issue in west Aust except the tailgate?


    Car would be used as a weekender and to go camping a few times a year but would have to be reliable enough to get the family safely home

    I prefer the later models, not sure how they are classed but the one with the last style of door cards and have found two id like to look at -
    1993 Land Rover Range Rover Wagon | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Chittering Area - Lower Chittering | 1047985304

    Range Rover 1993 | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Western Australia - Perth Region | 1046851287

    Both 93's, similar k's and a few mentioned issues.

    A few things I would like to know more about if someone could help -

    Are my lists pretty much ok?
    What would be the expected K's from. 93's main running gear, ie engine, zf trans, xfer case with viscous clutch?

    I didn't want to buy one of the above if I'm up for big dollars within a year or two, 'er indoors wouldn't be impressed

  2. #2
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    Why ?

    Fuel guzzling will be around 20 litres per hundred k's. Sure, you might get better.... but set aside $30 per hundred.
    Whatever one you buy, you'll be spending lots of money fixing/replacing things. Viscous couplings inside the transfer case (later models) will have failed... they tend to take out front CV's Another $1000 or more...

    Cruise controls always play up. and the rest of your list is realistic. Oh, and water leaks around the rear tailgate... means a rusted out boot floor if really bad

    But they can be nice to drive...

  3. #3
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    A friend of mine had the choice between an unmolested 200,000km old '94 update model and a fully repaired one with 400,000km and a little rust. He took the older one because most of the common repairs had already been carried out, and it was 1/2 the price. He still has money in his budget to do a few major things which were missed. Reliability is more important to him than minor blemishes. Oh, and the rusty OEM upper tailgate had already been replaced with an aluminium framed one!

  4. #4
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    You mentioned you don't want to buy one of the above if you're going to be up for big dollars in a year or two.
    Not being Negative, but buying a Classic Rangie will eventually cost you something somewhere. Maybe something little, maybe something large, but you should factor that into your buying process.
    Bee Utey is on the money (he usually is) the more K's on the thing, the more chance of all the niggles being sorted. (if it was a daily driver)
    As with any older car, (but particularly Rangies), you need to pay attention to it.
    You should open the Bonnet once a week, and just have a look around checking things.
    You are right about the wheel arch Rust, usually in the States or UK, from the Salt etc they put on their roads.
    The later Classic Rangies ran the Lucas 14CUX system. Much more reliable than the earlier EFI systems. Had my Disco for nine years, the only failure from the EFI system, was the TPS, which left me stranded on the side of the road.
    The Oil leaks can be easily fixed. Swivel housing are not really a big job.
    Transfer box could be, just depends where the oil is coming from.
    Things like the seats and the Heater fan won't stop you driving the car., so don't worry about that.
    I'll also put money on the Central Locking not working properly, OR, it's about to not work properly................
    Whichever you choose, have fun. Classic Rangies rock.
    They just want you to love them back!
    Cheers.

  5. #5
    Kizz302 Guest
    Many thanks for your input so far guys.

    Great point on a vehicle with more k's having the issues fixed, takes me back to my old 4sp auto EA Falcon where I fixed all of the issues, new engine, trans, brake, etc and still it was only worth a few K

    I already drive a gas guzzling V8 falcon daily but my carbon offset car is a 1.5 Getz, still 20/100 is pretty darn poor but as it would only be driven a few thousand k's a year, it might be acceptable. Gas would be perfect though.

    From what I have read, the VC appears to fail around 70,000 miles so I would imagine both of these RR's would have had something done by now. The cheaper one with the dud CV I guess could have a locked VC.

    I've seen Cvs joints on ebay for around the $50 mark, so with labour I would have expected around $500/side?

    Cruise/central locking, fans etc don't stop the RR (or is it 'fail to proceed'? )
    So I can look past that.

    Sounds like the ZF box itself is reliable so shouldn't be much of an issue.

  6. #6
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    Two things to add to your list:
    Suspension joints (including rear ball-joint).
    Heater core.

    Great vehicles when sorted, but it will take 1-2 years to get on top of dumb stuff the previous owners have done.

  7. #7
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    Please hurry up and buy one or all three Classics being advertised... to remove temptation from me...and to join the ranks of fiscally foolish, irresponsible, stubborn, sentimental, one-eyed idiots who knowingly buy a bankrupting British car...
    - Us RR owners will cheerfully advise against them... and welcome you into our asylum...

    The VC can be fixed via Ashcroft UK, or replaced with an LT230 t/fer box if you can find one in good nick.
    Or, take off the front prop shaft and drive a RWD Classic daily driver.... Mine is great fun on wet round-a-bouts.

    Seriously, one of the stupid reasons for buying mine was the other choice of an Isuzu 4WD. Same size engine, faster etc, but well known for a nasty thirst. Reckoned if I was going to suffer 'Classic' cost, I may as well drive the darn thing. !!!

    But, like fungus, they grown on you...and can be nice to drive...

    PS, don't take it personally when things break...and we all stand around laughing at you. Been there-Done that

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kizz302 View Post
    Many thanks for your input so far guys.

    Great point on a vehicle with more k's having the issues fixed, takes me back to my old 4sp auto EA Falcon where I fixed all of the issues, new engine, trans, brake, etc and still it was only worth a few K

    I already drive a gas guzzling V8 falcon daily but my carbon offset car is a 1.5 Getz, still 20/100 is pretty darn poor but as it would only be driven a few thousand k's a year, it might be acceptable. Gas would be perfect though.

    From what I have read, the VC appears to fail around 70,000 miles so I would imagine both of these RR's would have had something done by now. The cheaper one with the dud CV I guess could have a locked VC.

    I've seen Cvs joints on ebay for around the $50 mark, so with labour I would have expected around $500/side?

    Cruise/central locking, fans etc don't stop the RR (or is it 'fail to proceed'? )
    So I can look past that.

    Sounds like the ZF box itself is reliable so shouldn't be much of an issue.

    The ZF's are Brilliant. Again, my Disco had no issues with it's Auto. It towed, Climbed, did all kinds of stupid things you shouldn't do in a car, but the Tranny just kept doing what it was told. With regular checks and maintenance, all good

    Don't buy the cheap CV's on Ebay!!!!!!!!!!!! Just don't.
    There are parts that you can get cheap, and get away with, but a CV is an important bit, so don't be cheap in that case.

  9. #9
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    No, buy the el-cheapo ones on evilBay.... that way you'll get lots of practice at 'replacing'.

    - And publish your fastest time here.....


  10. #10
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Great vehicles when sorted, but it will take 1-2 years to get on top of dumb stuff the previous owners have done.
    The PO of mine was the FIL.... I've had it 5 years, almost rebuilt it end to end and I STILL find dumb stuff he did...
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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