Gav, do you have a part number for those struts? Looks like a great idea
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Gav, do you have a part number for those struts? Looks like a great idea
Hi Damien. No part number for brackets sorry, as they were fabricated by the PO who was an alum boatbuilder in QLD. The car is away for a few days but will check for strut numbers when I can get to her.
I'm happy to take closer pix and some measurements for size and location etc if that helps.
i plan to do the same for my D2 anyway once I get off my derriere.
Cheers Gavin
Hi All,
There was a very clever upper tailgate strut mod that opened the tailgate once a bit of the opening sequence was done manually.
i.e. when the upper taiigate is nearly closed the struts actually worked to hold it shut. I have a modded 2 door project sitting here that has had it done. Works really well, better than stock.
Looks from the photo of the bonnet strut set up that the same principle may be in play. If the strut pivot mounts are lower on the bonnet than the pivot points on the guards then the struts would be helping to hold the bonnet down when it was closed or close to closure.
Something to consider because you wouldn't really want the struts applying a lot of pressure to open the bonnet at the full closure position.
cheers, DL
The bonnet in this case opens and closes quite slowly and without much pressure required, so yes I concur some thought has gone into the configuration.
Again, when I get off my derriere, I'll be doing that rear door mod that was so kindly clarified a few months ago and of which I have saved a full explanation/dimensions.
after much mucking around i got the dam thing to fit and the bonnet now closes as a bonus...
/allgoodfun!
Evicted by the PO, mouldering its way back to white powder or whatever it is that rotten RR v-8's become...Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
We took both the LSE and D2a on a looong week-end run, and despite the massive roofrack, fuel useage was remarkably similar...
And economical.
The gas lift arrangement is very neat and works magnificently.
Photos of the arrangment will be appreciated :)Quote:
Originally Posted by superquag
:ttiwwp:
Will photo, measure and post for all interested when she comes home hopefully within a week or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chucaro
Lost most of (4HP24) transmission (forward motion) en route to mechanic for a service. I've just had a back op and not allowed to do much and hoping its nothing serious/expensive. Darren at Aztec is hoping it is crap in the pickup pipe or minor valve issue. Trans was ex Jag 4.0L and immaculate when installed about 50K ago. Irrelevant, but BW Viscous Coupling was fully rebuilt about 70K ago.
Cheers
Hopefully this will be enough info for anyone interested. Should be a mini tutorial? but I can't claim any credit as all done by PO.
CORRECTION - It now appears the number on the bonnet stays starts with 05, not 95 or 93?, so the correct number in full to replace that on the scanned page is 0571BE 03710N 26/95 1/5 It is a Liftomatic Stabilus ex UK, with extended length (bolt to bolt) of 24 1/2 inches with approx 10 inches of exposed inner shaft at that point.
I'm checking out the stabilus website and the (possibly new) serial numbers are in a format like this:
555762 / 1000N / K4 / D4 / S1
based on the spec provided, there are a number of units offering 685mm of travel with a 10mm shaft and a 22mm damper body.
the spec works something like this
555762 <- part #
1000N <- force rating in Nm
K4 <- attachment type on shaft
D4 <- attachment type on body
S1 <- not really sure
You can get more information from here:
Non-Locking Gas Spring // Stabilus.com
It's important to know how much force is required at the hinge point to maintain the lift position. Too much will see the bonnet pushed up too hard and difficult to close, to little and it will not hold position.
but to give you a rough idea, I have pictures (which I will upload later) of the single gas strut which holds up the bonnet of my cosworth (quite heavy) and it's a sleeved type (allows for an extension of the opening (past vertical)) but the normal 'open' position, similar to as pictured already in this thread, is identical to the RRC in terms of open angle. The cosworth has a double hinge with an extra locking mechanism past the vertical to hold the position.
the strut overall length is approx 820mm eye to eye, and the part number is 6203BA 0280N 284/07 EG 02
All I can glean from this is the force rating of the damper is 280N - assuming the nomenclature is the same as current offerings.
I rang stabilus in Melbourne this morning, and the part number (9571BE) is a german part number and from what I gleaned, every market has their own nomenclature. all the lady could tell me was the strut had a 370N pressure rating.
So you'll need to find a 10mm/22mm Damper with a 585/685mm extended length, rated at 370N with those plastic fittings (according to your pics)
Stabilus have different mounting variants, so it's important to know that the last bit is the mount types on each end of the strut.
The kind lady also told me that Repco & Monroe are the agents (retail) for Stabilus here in OZ, so if you need to go looking stuff up or just want to get something in the same vicinity, then it might pay you to go down and visually ID what you're looking for.... can't see why somethign from a Holden or Ford could not be used instead. It all depends on the mount type you're looking for and the rating.
Obviously, if you alter the pivot positions of the strut, you will have to revise the damper rating and free length.
I'll upload some pics later today.