Thread: I must be insane

I also found:

-The horn doesn't work
-one of the tail lights doesn't work (discovered when splicing in a 7pin round trailer plug as -well). I also found all the wiring is already there for a brake controller
-the passenger window is happy to go down ............................ But back up ............ Yeah right.... just as well it wasn't raining.

Anyway you can pop the window switches apart and clean the contacts.

Now the tail lights .... after pulling them both out and scratching around with the wiring ... .and trying too chase it .... I pulled the fuse cover and found one blown fuse. Yes each tail light has a different fuse powering it ( I thought only citroen did crazy **** like that ).

How the horn ..... What an absolute bastard of a design that is .... talk about bloody frustrating. I pulled one of the horns off and couldn't find voltage at the horn (and the horn itself worked if shorted across the battery, no blown fuses that I could find .... However the switch does rattle if you turn the indicators on ... so I thought there must have been broken contact up in the top of the stalk where the horn button is.



The steering wheel didn't want to come off. I just braced by legs under it at the bottom and pushed, while pulling on the top .... Then gave the steering column a couple of sharp whacks with a hammer and it popped off (just as well, I reckon i would have needed to make a puller otherwise).







The mongrel switch just slides out and unplugs. There is a screw at the back of the stalk, the allows you to pry the front off the stalk as shown. there's no horn contact there .. just a nylon shaft that moves going down the stalk shaft. The rattling is just "picture/symbols/fiber light" plate has come away, if you push it back together it's clip into place and no longer rattle.

You can pop the back off the switch. Note: the contact the comes away, you must ensure this is in it's recess as you clip it back together.



What a crappy design ... there's only a bees dick in it ... see the white nylon rod visible in this one, that is the horn button fully depressed, in the piccie above it doesn't show.



The horn contacts, I bent the back one forward until the nylon rod could push them together again.





This was incredibly frustrating. It took me half a dozen attempts to get it right. The horn would either not work, or work correctly, but toot as you turned the indicators on/off. There would be 100th mm between not working and tooting the bloody horn when you use the indicators. I managed to fluke bending it to the perfect spot so the horn works, but you don't get it blowing unless you push the button. I wonder if this has been apart before and there is something missing from the end of the nylon rod (a plastic clip ?). Oh well it works now.

The bonus of having to pull the switch out is I have now replaced the missing screws in the steering surround ... so it no longer rubs on the steering wheel when you turn it.

seeya,
Shane L.

This has been very helpful as I have to do a similar thing on mine.

My problem is that the horn button won't slide in and out without sticking, so will have something to do with the plastic bits in the end of the arm.

Thanks for that now I know what I need to do.

I'm glad Dad sold the Rangie to someone who will sort it out and get some good value out of it. Pretty sad it was sitting in the driveway not getting used.


The previous owner was a tinkerer so I'm not surprised about the botched wiring.


Trav

Well I deliberately left the slightly blowing manifold exhaust gasket there so there would be some easier stuff too pick.

And this list is:
--front swaysbar D bushes
--front lower arm -> chassis bush
--degrease engine
--rh outer tierod boot
--eyelevel brake light not working (didn't evne notice it had one ).

I said "bloody weird it has flogged out bushes .... it drives so nice". He said they showed signs of cracking. I'll have l look tonight. I'm sure not going to impressed if they want perfectly fine bushes changed because they don't look pretty in the piccies they have too take If they are obviously suspect though .... well that's fine. I dont' mind at all valid stuff being picked up.

They seemed to really want too do the work themselves. I guess I should have made clear when I dropped it off. I do ALL work myself. The bird there even said if by the 7th day we don't have the repairs done they can do them on not charge for a new roadworthy (they think they can find and fit range rover classic bushes in 1 day ....... I guess it's possible if they know of rover parts in ballarat).

seeya,
Shane L.

Did the roadworthy guy pick on the easy replaced and cheap bushes for me ?? rover parts. rollbar bushes == $5.50, trailing arm bush $9.30 and tie rod boot $2.75.... Hey I think I can actually afford that

There not too bad of a list, most of it's pretty doable in a couple of hours. At least it's not silly stuff like cracked door seals etc.. which is total bull****!!!


The tail light on the rear glass, never noticed it didn't work, must of stopped working at some point. Funny that.


Trav

Yep the bushes sure do have visible cracks in them.... They are however 100% slop free.... So why fail a roadworthy on them Oh well, they look easy enough to change either way. The front trailing arm bushes look like you just unbolt them and slide them on. The rollbars 'D' bushes should be the same.

The engine is oily though, I'll pressure wash it and give it a good clean. If anything weeps, I'll stop around the corner and wipe it down. I'll post some piccies on what now fails roadworthies in victoria

seeya,
Shane L.