Thread: I has me beat .....any suggestions

Hi All,

As far as I can tell both carbies are sucking air at similar rate due to sound (with tube) and also height of both pistons at idle are the same..... though my wife would challenge my hearing

PhillipA If you can (or others on this Forum) tell us if you can buy a colourtune in AU or best place to source one overseas would be appreciated.

I've set needles as per (RR factory manual) where they suggest that you fit needle with base of needle flat with piston on initial start-up.
I've made sure grub screw on side of piston is in the groove of needle and that if you (using adjusting tool with piston out of carbie) and turn clockwise (enriching) mixture that it will fully tightens and locks which is one of the check that they recommended.
You then back off (turning anti clockwise) and base of needle (brass section) rises so when piston operating at idle the needle is sitting lower to reduce amount of fuel being sucked into carbie.
Yes.... if unscrewed to far you can disengage needle as there is no "stop" on turning it anti clockwise.

They suggest that you can adjust needle with piston out so that you can tell accurately that the needle hasn't disengaged by unscrewing too far.

I'll recheck them but I believe that they are unscrewed as far as possible (anti clockwise without disengaging) and that's why strong fuel smell has me beat, but R H Carbie when you lift the piston rises but doesn't falter, so I'll check it again.

L H Side Carbie has choke on it and as I said on my earlier email the previous owner converted it to manual.
Now that I've got my head around how he set it up if it's on there is a noticeable black sooty smoke from exhaust with choke on and its virtually non-existent when off.
My searches suggest that the old earlier manual choke from earlier carbie (of which I now have a set) won't fit the later carbies I have on vehicle.
The older carbies I now have, have worn spindles on both and would need a complete rebuild

When you lift the piston LH Carbie, it will rev higher then stumbles so mixture seems to be about right.

My classic is fitted with a H/Duty Borg Warner 35 3 speed auto (factory option in Perth) and from all write ups at the time said that it covered the 1/4 mile in same time as manual though by today's standards she's not fast.

101 Ron: I've set floats as per factory manual and I may need to re look at this. Whoever had touched the floats previously had bent the arms that sit on fuel needles (which they recommend to do) I re straightened them and using aluminium washers (of various thicknesses) to bring out the main jets so that floats are sitting at factory specs.
It could be that the floats are rising (and with new fuel pump and pressure) they could be bending and flooding before shutting off the fuel needle.

I will also look at PVC valve and booster valves.

PLR - 1746 plugs were sooty and didn't alter engine running ....wouldn't it be the RH Side carbie being too rich? .....
Could you clarify what you mean by "hot worker"

Finally ....all your ideas and thoughts are really appreciated.

This journey with the fuel pump and carbies has really tested me.
Luckily she's not my daily driver as that could have made the difference and I think PhillipA you made a comment on a post of mine (quite a few years ago now) when you said that we have to be enthusiasts
(for putting up with the niggles that go with owning a RRC)

I've resolved that I won't let this beat me and I'll keep working of it (though my wife, kids and neighbours) would say get rid of it.

Cheers


Baggy

cylinders 2358 work off one carb (i think passenger side)(follow the runners in the casting)
1467 work off the other carb . so it seems you have a carb fault.