Wow, 42k its barely run in!
Very nice!
I recently picked up a modified 86 as well and its got a few minor rust issues and I would love to find another 86 to use for parts, but haven't seen one that clean in a long time!
Mines only got 42k on it so the rust needs to be fixed![]()
2007/2002/2000/1994/1993/1988/1987/1985/1984/1981/1979/1973 Range Rover 1986 Wadham Stringer
and a Nissan Cube............
South Australia.
Wow, 42k its barely run in!
Charleston Green 1997 TDi Disco R380
Silver 1986 Vogue
Charcoal 1983 Range Rover 4 speed
Silver 98 Volvo C70
Red 88 740 HP Turbo
Silver Volvo 740 Wagoon
1998 Volvo S90 Royal
W116's, C107 and a W123 onna stick
Nice honest vehicle and having a complete intact interior is 3/4 of any restoration job solved in my opinion.
Panels can be resprayed, but its sitting in a nice original interior that makes for an even more enjoyable classic ride.
Great find ....as jsp says good ones are getting rare now even in 4dr classics .... we'll watch her progress with interest
Cheers
Baggy
A few minor tasks on the list now.
Right hand rear door wont open so im going to have to pull the door card off to reattach the rod or whatever fell off.
Left front shock absorber top rubber is in need of replacement to stop a clunk.
Fuel injection has to work, fortunately it has a Bosch external pump and filter cradle and my replacement Pump arrived today so I'll power syphon the tanks, give em a quick rinse and add some fresh 98 Pulp with the new pump and filter.
Finally I have the drivers window working slowly, so Bailey channel needs cleaning but none of the other windows even twitch.
So id hope to find relays or fuses? Maybe check the earth connections with a jumper lead off the negative terminal straight to the doors.
Any clues with the windows on common culprits?
Cheers,
Tony
Oh and anyone know if you can get a hose kit for the Aux Air valve and vac plumbing? The hoses are brittle.
Last edited by tony66_au; 4th September 2015 at 08:21 PM. Reason: forgot some
Charleston Green 1997 TDi Disco R380
Silver 1986 Vogue
Charcoal 1983 Range Rover 4 speed
Silver 98 Volvo C70
Red 88 740 HP Turbo
Silver Volvo 740 Wagoon
1998 Volvo S90 Royal
W116's, C107 and a W123 onna stick
The switches seem to be the main culprit for the windows. Pull the connectors off and clean them out, they get a lot of fluff and grime in there over the years.
Neale
85 Range Rover Ute (Project in pieces)
89 Range Rover Classic (Black Thunder)
93 200tdi Disco,(OGRE)
96 300tdi Disco, DEAD MOTOR
04 Nissan Patrol with ALL the fruit
09 Cub Daintree Kamperoo
12 VE II Commodore Ute DD
Tony,
I had the same issue with the RH rear window, and it turned out to be the switch itself. Cleaning made no difference.
Hopefully yours fares better.
I find I am spending more time in the RRC than any of the MB's - and the to-do list is growing..
exponentially!
Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...
MY92 RRC 3.9 Ardennes Green
MY93 RRC LSE 300tdi/R380/LT230 British Racing Green
MY99 D2 V8 Kinversand
Of the 4 switches the only one I got going was the drivers front which has been replaced in the past as its different to the other 3 so I've ordered a full set online.
The Uro brand switches are not very hardy I have found in the past with Benz's and the feed poles on the switch I pulled apart were very badly pitted and corroded which means they wont feed the rear door switches either which matches my findings when checking the rear door switches for operation as well, left rear would twitch and open slightly off the door switch and its partner in the front bank is a genuine LR switch still part servicable after 30 years but the right rear gets zero volts through the Uro replacement switch in the front bank so we all know where the (+) ive feed comes from lol.
I found it hard to fathom that the entire window circuit relied on feed from the front and that there were no bi metal breakers etc although the way the isolate switch is configured I can see why.
Agricultural but simple.
So the issue lies in the quality of the switch which has a heck of a current draw through it, Pulling the original switch apart and comparing it to the cheaper replacements the build quality is clearly evident so Id say the old practise of cleaning the OE switches was a superior option to replacing them with lesser items.
However I think that after 30 odd years the original items (That remain) are now unservicable although I will do a more indepth investigation/Necropsy on the old switches when I am done getting this old girl roadworthy.
As for the German side of things?
Im down to 4 W116's and a C107 with a W126 SEL on the horizon.
Sent the 124 to the scrappies and when im done stripping 2 of the 116's I'll be down 2 more and of the remaining 2 im keeping one and giving one to a mate to look after (LOL the giving is to work around a minor technicality where he is banned from enjoying life so he is looking after it for me as a favour)
Oh and the bailey channel/rubbers need de filthing/replacing on the Rangie too which wih a bit of light lube should make them quicker along with some love to the motor and arms in the doors.
I do like my glass to be fast.
Charleston Green 1997 TDi Disco R380
Silver 1986 Vogue
Charcoal 1983 Range Rover 4 speed
Silver 98 Volvo C70
Red 88 740 HP Turbo
Silver Volvo 740 Wagoon
1998 Volvo S90 Royal
W116's, C107 and a W123 onna stick
Not Mercedes fast although the Grosser Hydro glass would be fun until someone got some bits in the way....
And my reaction times aint what they used to be
Charleston Green 1997 TDi Disco R380
Silver 1986 Vogue
Charcoal 1983 Range Rover 4 speed
Silver 98 Volvo C70
Red 88 740 HP Turbo
Silver Volvo 740 Wagoon
1998 Volvo S90 Royal
W116's, C107 and a W123 onna stick
Bought 4 new switches from LR Direct as well as a few other bibs and bobs and since I last graced the keyboard we have sorted and got running the petrol side of the equation.
Since the 2 LPG tanks take the space of the original fuel tank which is replaced with sill tanks the usual in tank pump was replaced with an external pump/filter combo which has been re plumbed and mounted, the sill tanks flushed and the L jet Lucas injection made functional.
The car drives nicely on both LPG and the wet stuff which led me to ponder the Ign timing which usually needs a shload of advance for LPG which leads to popping and farting on trailing throttle when on Petrol and this was not the case......
So spark advance found to be set to "beige cardigan" and so I crudely advanced timing to the limits of the existing dizzy which made the whole LPG thing more fun but im going to have to look into a remapped dizzy to more suit LPG and im thinking perhaps some way I can advance and retard the Ign timing to suit those time I want to run a tank or 2 of fuel through the old girl. (Hint hint suggestions?)
Charleston Green 1997 TDi Disco R380
Silver 1986 Vogue
Charcoal 1983 Range Rover 4 speed
Silver 98 Volvo C70
Red 88 740 HP Turbo
Silver Volvo 740 Wagoon
1998 Volvo S90 Royal
W116's, C107 and a W123 onna stick
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