Reply With QuoteThey don't have a choke, they are fuel injected.
The engine temp sensor should be supplying information to the ECU to enable cold start enrichment.
SysAdmin (Owner)
which sensor(s) tell the comp that it needs to engage the choke?
2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi
"Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
"If you don't have a sense of humour, you probably don't have any sense at all!" -- a wise observation by someone else
'If everyone colludes in believing that war is the norm, nobody will recognize the imperative of peace." -- Anne Deveson
“What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” - Pericles
"We can ignore reality, but we cannot ignore the consequences of ignoring reality.” – Ayn Rand
"The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of your thoughts." Marcus Aurelius
ForumSage
They don't have a choke, they are fuel injected.
The engine temp sensor should be supplying information to the ECU to enable cold start enrichment.
Master
SubscriberIf its a flapper system, sensor at front of manifold next to the EFI coolant temp sensor. This is for the 9th injector. Thermo air valve thingy on the opposite side of the manifold to bump the base idle up.
Think that's the way it works anyway
SysAdmin (Owner)
so that is the thermotime sensor by the sounds of it.
can you normally give them a cleanup and they start working again or am i better off just biting the bullet and buying one?
2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi
"Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
"If you don't have a sense of humour, you probably don't have any sense at all!" -- a wise observation by someone else
'If everyone colludes in believing that war is the norm, nobody will recognize the imperative of peace." -- Anne Deveson
“What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” - Pericles
"We can ignore reality, but we cannot ignore the consequences of ignoring reality.” – Ayn Rand
"The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of your thoughts." Marcus Aurelius
Master
SubscriberThat's it. Not sure if you can just clean them, I would guess not. Not sure mine actually works, not that the extra injector's plug is attached if it does work. My rangie still usually starts ok as it is, and -4 or 5 is not uncommon here during winter.
SysAdmin (Owner)
ta
i was cleaning contacts and reseating bits and pieces and it seems the thermotime sensor is working and triggering the extra fuel when cold but the revs aren't increasing to cope... so am off to try and find out why thats not happening when i gett some more time to fiddle...
thanks
2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi
"Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
"If you don't have a sense of humour, you probably don't have any sense at all!" -- a wise observation by someone else
'If everyone colludes in believing that war is the norm, nobody will recognize the imperative of peace." -- Anne Deveson
“What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” - Pericles
"We can ignore reality, but we cannot ignore the consequences of ignoring reality.” – Ayn Rand
"The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of your thoughts." Marcus Aurelius
Master
SubscriberThermal air valve on the RHS of the manifold is the culprit I think. Mine used to work, but not so well anymore. I mite have to look at that at some stage too, mite explain why its decided to drop a cylinder for a min on cold startup of late.
Master
SubscriberHaving a play with the extra air valve on mine atm. Resistance at the plug is in spec (33 ohms) for the internal heater. Pulled valve of my spare rangie and its the same.
Put them both in the freezer for a while, then in a dish of hot water and watched the change in the orifice/slide inside. The valve I pulled from spare car seems to close the orifice a bit more than the other, so mite fit that one and see how it goes.
ChatterBox
SubscriberThe orifice in the big ugly cold idle valve should be visible when cold, there's a straight bimetal strip inside that rotates it closed as it warms up. If it's stuck closed, you can drill out the rivets and dismantle it for cleaning, tap some threads and reassemble with M5 capscrews.
Master
SubscriberBoth the ones I have here are bolted together.
Refitted spare valve, idled at 1100rpm for a bit, then settled down to a steady 800. Reset idle too 700 hot, see how it goes with a cold(ish) start in the morning.
The plug on my thermotime switch was also only half on.
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