Reply With QuoteStrange. Call Toperformance on (03) 9873 1722 or toper@toperformance.com.au
That's where I purchased mine from, albeit many years ago.
ForumSage
The KONI site currently does not list for Range Rover WITH air suspension...
Bilsteins are, according to others whom I've spoken to, aimed more at 'performance' (?) than 'comfort'.
Looks like heading back to OEM.
- Along with replacing 'rubbers' around the rear axle where they're worn, or might be less than 'perfect'.
I'm inclined for Old-Fashioned Rubber as compared to 'urethane' as past experience has shown them to be longer-lived - but at the expense of softness.
- Island 4x4, Paddocks, et al may be seeing some of my remaining $$.
Wizard
SubscriberStrange. Call Toperformance on (03) 9873 1722 or toper@toperformance.com.au
That's where I purchased mine from, albeit many years ago.
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
Master
Just put a set of boges back on last week, supplied thankfully by roverlord, had bilsteins and didn't like them at all............
The koni's on the P38 were great but no one had them for the classic last I checked....
2007/2002/2000/1994/1993/1988/1987/1985/1984/1981/1979/1973 Range Rover 1986 Wadham Stringer
and a Nissan Cube............
South Australia.
ForumSage
Urethane is great on the rebound side (i.e. non- compression) because it will maintain the shock pin locations much better over time in a RRC, especially in the rear and especially with a lift.Originally Posted by superquag
120k kms since I set mine up like this and the rubber ones are still good.
Toyota cups are great too, but not from a dealer ($7 each). Have a search, I've posted about this before.
cheers, DL
Fossicker
Regarding rubbers - in a 10 yo 220K D1 (with ALL rubbers externally perfect and no movement with crowbars) I went Thredbo - Melbourne and had to go the long way via Cann River, Couple of stretches on the Princes Hwy were slightly twitchy and arrival had me in not good shape. Replaced ALL rubbers and Koni's and it drove like a new vehicle.
Three of the rubbers had some wear visible after removal and most of them appeared to be a bit harder (using the hand ballpoint version of the Shore test.
Given the fairly low cost of rubbers and the extra work to do one at a time rather than replace all in one hit, all at once is the way to go.
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