Thread: 3.9 v8 temperature sender

Tried welding a nut on it while it was in the car - it just broke off. It drilled out nice and easy. If you start off centre, you can correct it before it goes too far. Once I'd drilled out 90% of it, I ran a tap down the hole and it all fell out. New bolts are installed with anti seize so hopefully that won't happen again.

Almost got it all back together, I want to get water into the system tonight to see if I have any static leaks before I run it tomorrow.

Originally Posted by bacicat

Tried welding a nut on it while it was in the car - it just broke off. It drilled out nice and easy. If you start off centre, you can correct it before it goes too far. Once I'd drilled out 90% of it, I ran a tap down the hole and it all fell out. New bolts are installed with anti seize so hopefully that won't happen again.

Almost got it all back together, I want to get water into the system tonight to see if I have any static leaks before I run it tomorrow.

I use a loctite anti-seize stick on nearly everything these days. It took me 2hours of swearing to get the exhaust 'Y' pipe to exhaust flange undone last weekend. Lots of involved. Whoever fitted the discovery engine/gearbox ... I'm bloody sure they used "loctite never" on the threads, rounded the bloody nuts (no, I'm not kidding they were rounded when I climbed under and looked) then I reckon just for the hell of it they sprayed it all with salt water

I ended up grinding through the lower nut until it was almost through to the bolt in two places and hitting it with a chisel to break it.... then cutting the exhaust into two pieces behind the huge center muffler and rotating the muffler 180degrees so I could grind through the top nut in two places and hit it with a chisel.

All this is just preperation for the transfer case change. The borg warner is a lot larger so you need to disconnect the exhaust (in this case remove it as the center muffler is bloody ginourmous and remove the chassis cross member to tilt the engine. I don't reckon you'd need to do this with the LT230 as it clears the transmission hump.

seeya,
Shane L.

Ok... First up ... I humbly offer these cheap ****ty temperature controllers an apology ... And will simply say, if your multi-meter ever flashed "Low Bat" ............ Change the bloody battery!!! Otherwise your resistance and therefore TEMPERATURE probe will read incorrectly.



These cheap ****ty gauges are infact dead on in the other car.

Anyway, I found the temp sender in the '92 ........ underneath the thermostat housing (different place to the piccies previously in this thread). The sender looked way different to the mechanical temp gauges I thought I better check the manual Rangie too .... Can you believe it ... The temp sender is moved again .... 'Cos this car has a serpentine belt Disco V8 ..... Infact, I can't find the damn thing. It's hidden either under the plenum or behind the alternator/dizzie.

So I'm looking at the bloody thing scratching my head and thought ............. No way ....



The temp gauge fits straight into the bleed point on the top of the radiator. Now this isnt' an ideal place for a sender.... It's reading the coolant temperature, not the engine temperature. So if you loose all coolant ........ It'll show cold..... If your thermostat doesn't open .... .it'll show cold.



Before trying to fit this thing, I thought I better test it. And I'll be damned if it didn't agree with the ****ty temp controllers in the other rangie ... Fans on low speed (wow those falcon fans are nice .... so quiet on low speed). On at 76degrees..... A mere 45seconds later off at 72degrees.... So I dragged out the mutli-meter it disagreed. So I changed the battery in the multi-meter and it now agrees with the gauges................ AAARrrrrhhhh, how stupid am I



This will have to be where that nice little VDO gauge will be placed. I don't think the capillary wire will be long enough to place the gauge anywhere else.

seeya,
Shane L.

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

Ok...

Infact, I can't find the damn thing. It's hidden either under the plenum or behind the alternator/dizzie.





seeya,
Shane L.

Look at bacicat pic , #10 post , the one closest to his broken bolt .

Originally Posted by PLR

Look at bacicat pic , #10 post , the one closest to his broken bolt .

I'll have another look, but I couldn't see it there. The '92 is in a different spot, below the thermostat housing. The disco motor could be different again. I'll try to feel by touch to see if it's behind the ECU's temp sender.

seeya,
Shane L.

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

I'll have another look, but I couldn't see it there. The '92 is in a different spot, below the thermostat housing. The disco motor could be different again. I'll try to feel by touch to see if it's behind the ECU's temp sender.

seeya,
Shane L.

All the V belt manifolds , carby , flapper , hotwire all face forward in the same place as the one you`ve found .

The serpentine belt hot wire 3.9 Soft dash RR , Disco are on top at front like the picture from bacicat .

Shane, I had a spare manifold I was goin to use, but there were quite a few differences. One of which was the temp sender was not drilled or tapped on the other one like it was on mine.

My engine is a 96 - serpentine belt out of a Disco, the other manifold is off what I believe was a 93 - RRC.

Well the fuel smells are still pretty bad. My wife will refuse to travel in it as petrol fumes will give her asthma. She can't travel in air cooled cars like Citroen 2cvs/GS either (as any oil fumes end up straight into the cab through the heater tubes).

I unscrewed the petrol filler cap on the automatic that has never had petrol smells and it hissed for quite a few seconds.. while it bleed air in. So I sucked on the top of it's cap ... It only allows air one direction.... there is a one way valve there. I tried the stinky one ... No restriction, air flows both ways. Bingo, found the problem. Swap the caps, drive the end of the street and turn at the downhill intersection ..... Lots of petrol fumes into the cab with the window down.

The last owner said he had the little tank out a couple of times, so I'm certain the tank and it's connections will be fine. I reckon it's going to have a crack in the filler tube .... Which will allow fumes straight into the cabin as it's not closed off from inside the car. I can't see how to unscrew the filler tube so it must be up above the tank.... So I'll need to pull the tank out and the filer tube. Petrol just splashing around in the tank is making a lot of fumes so it MUST be the filler tube that basically passes through inside the cabin. What I'll need to do is remove the filler tube, put the cap on and hold it upside down and see if it leaks from anywhere.

I've chased fumes in Citroen CX's before. You can spend bloody ages pulling stuff apart multiple times and not find it (drives you insane). I finally pulled the filler tube out of that one and find a tiny crack in the bottom of it. It's amazing how small a crack in a filler tube will pull a HUGE amount of fumes into the cabin if you have the front windows down.

Winding up all the windows and turning the fans on seems to stop these sorts of fuel smells. You have slightly pressurised the cabin so the fumes seem to be pushed out.

seeya,
Shane L.