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Thread: 1993 EAS fuse??

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverv8 View Post
    Ok had a bit of look
    Maxi fuse ok, light flashes on the up button, center button lights up when pressed.
    there is a clicking noise coming from the steel box under the drivers door which i think houses the valve block.
    Im hoping for something simple..
    how do I access the stuff inside, does that steel box drop down?
    G`day ,

    the click may be a solenoid or the pump .

    If they are still flashing and working when pushed , that`s a good thing because it hasn`t hard faulted as yet . When hard faulted the lights go solid .

    Yes , valve block and driver ( which will be one unit on yours most likely , next model is 2 seperate units like a P38a ) also the compressor is there .

    The box unbolts ( 4 bolts ) and will hang down but the wiring and air hoses will have pressure put on them if you don`t have something the right height to sit the box on .

    First though , i`d suggest you try jumping the ECU .

    If you look under the drive seat you`ll find 2 ECUs the top 1 closest to the seat base is the EAS ECU . There is a panel where you heals would be if sitting in the seat and you moved your feet to the seat base ( unclips )

    A piece of wire , with 2 bare ends , house power , single strand is good , black .

    With the key out of the ignition unplug the ECU ( key in and on will hard fault )

    Jump pin 1 and 8 and the compressor should run .
    Pin 1 is power . ( try with a test light )

    You`ll see there are 2 rows of pins in the plug , one is longer than the other

    The longer row is Pins 1 to 18 .

    The shorter row is Pins 19 to 35 .

    Pin 1 is closest to where the wires enter the plug in the longer row .

    Pin 19 is closest to where the wires enter the plug in the short row .

    The plug unclips from the ECU the side the wires are .

    Let me know if the pump runs , if it does i`ll give you the pins to put air into and out of each Bag/corner ETC and that way you can check what the valve block is doing , if you like .

  2. #12
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    ok, with the key out, i dont have any power to pin 1...
    checked all the fuses i can find, they all look good.
    should I have power at pin 1 without the ignition on?? as i dont want to hard fault it
    Thanks

    also- does it matter if doors/bonnet is open doing this?
    Last edited by roverv8; 21st March 2016 at 09:27 AM. Reason: also
    89 RRC
    92 RRC Sherwood

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverv8 View Post
    ok, with the key out, i dont have any power to pin 1...
    checked all the fuses i can find, they all look good.
    should I have power at pin 1 without the ignition on?? as i dont want to hard fault it
    Thanks

    also- does it matter if doors/bonnet is open doing this?
    G`day ,

    it should have power on it for 2 minutes when the door is open .

    Yes , you need the ignition on II which will give constant power .

  4. #14
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    ok, i cant seem to get power to pin 1, no volts at all
    Fuse B4 all good, maxi all good, all the fuses under passenger seat look good, as all the other fuses i can see.
    wiring looks good, hasn't been tampered with
    89 RRC
    92 RRC Sherwood

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverv8 View Post
    ok, i cant seem to get power to pin 1, no volts at all
    Fuse B4 all good, maxi all good, all the fuses under passenger seat look good, as all the other fuses i can see.
    wiring looks good, hasn't been tampered with
    G`day ,

    wife`s out in the eas car so , just had a look at another of ours it`s a 93 on coils but most the eas is there .

    It also had no power on pin 1

    Have a look under the Maxi fuse and see if there is another fuse under it length ways closest to the floor .

    I wasn`t aware of this fuse as our softdash EAS doesn`t have it .

  6. #16
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    thanks, it will b tomorrow now, off to work
    Cheers
    89 RRC
    92 RRC Sherwood

  7. #17
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    ok, no fuse there,
    but pin 3 has power with ignition on, but not pin 1
    wasn't game to jump anything from pin 3 as im now not sure what pin the compressor is???
    Last edited by roverv8; 22nd March 2016 at 12:29 PM. Reason: info
    89 RRC
    92 RRC Sherwood

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverv8 View Post
    ok, no fuse there,
    but pin 3 has power with ignition on, but not pin 1
    wasn't game to jump anything from pin 3 as im now not sure what pin the compressor is???
    Compressor is Pin 8

    If you remove the small philips head screw in the plug end , it slides apart and the numbers and wires relating to can be seen .

    Pin 3 is orange/black and goes to one of the height sensors ( left front ). (This one doesn`t have sensors nor power on pin3 )

    Pin 1 is grey with a red trace if you follow it back it goes to the bigger white relay , at the relay this one has power on the grey/red and purple white .

    You need to find why Pin 1 has no power .

    Never tried this 93 before , jumping 1 and 8 and i have a spare pump
    Last edited by PLR; 22nd March 2016 at 02:04 PM. Reason: left f/ pump

  9. #19
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    ok, some progress
    Helps if 1 looks at the correct plug.....
    jumping pin 1 & 8 makes the clicking noise from the steel box, like it does when car is running & doors shut
    obviously there's a compressor issue, but what im yet to find out.
    Is it easy to remove & are they expensive??
    89 RRC
    92 RRC Sherwood

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverv8 View Post
    ok, some progress
    Helps if 1 looks at the correct plug.....
    jumping pin 1 & 8 makes the clicking noise from the steel box, like it does when car is running & doors shut
    obviously there's a compressor issue, but what im yet to find out.
    Is it easy to remove & are they expensive??
    G`day ,

    easy enough to remove the pump , mounts are a bit fiddly .

    The manual will say to remove the whole box and disconnect everything but if the dryer is undone and moved out the pump can be removed .

    First you could try jumping the relay wires , the yellow relay near the maxi fuse , pin 30 and 87 and see if the pump runs , doing this bypasses the thermal cut out so if left to run too long the pump will cook .

    As is , no need to plug the ECU back in .

    2nd Ed ....... And this Bit is getting Ahead of where your up to .

    If you remove the pump and want to test it check for continuity between the black and green wires and only put positive 12v on the green wire and negative for the black .

    Don`t put power on the orange wire or you will loose the thermal cutout .

    The pumps are rebuild able so are the motors if the parts can be got .

    The actual pump is unlikely to stop the motor .

    The motor is like most , it uses brushes , it has a roller/ball bearing on the pump end and a bush mounted in a tin holder on the other end .

    If the reason is no rotation of the motor it may be that the brush holder has fallen to bits or the brushes are worn out ETC .

    To take motor apart , the 3 small rivets at the bush end need to be drilled out ( to be replaced by small self tappers or similar ) if not and forced apart the bush holder will be stretched and won`t hold properly .

    If you find it beyond service and you can`t locate a classic pump , even though they are slightly different a P38a pump can be used but because they have a motor that is a little longer there is a need to make one new mount the other mount is the same , also the classic has 4 mounts and the p38 has 3 mounts .

    The cylinder heads also need to be swapped because of the different uses of filters and their connections ETC .

    3 ......... if you don`t know , to disconnect the air pipes just push the metal collar in and pull the pipe out .
    Last edited by PLR; 25th March 2016 at 08:15 PM. Reason: ECU.. 2nd ..3..

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