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Thread: 1993 EAS fuse??

  1. #21
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    Thanks again for all your info.
    Haven't had time to tackle it yet, as the car isn't here with me.(it's at my dads)
    Got next week off so will sort it out then, will post my findings.
    Cheers
    89 RRC
    92 RRC Sherwood

  2. #22
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    ok, had it to bits, got the compressor going.
    When you push the button to raise the suspension, it just makes a continual clicking noise from the valve body, can't feel which solenoid it is or what is actually making the noise
    89 RRC
    92 RRC Sherwood

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverv8 View Post
    ok, had it to bits, got the compressor going.
    When you push the button to raise the suspension, it just makes a continual clicking noise from the valve body, can't feel which solenoid it is or what is actually making the noise
    G`day ,

    how have you got the pump to run ?

    Does the pump keep running until it reaches cutout pressure ? ( as in normally )

    Edit ..........

    Without software i guess you`ll need to try manually to try to find what working and not .

    You`ll need three lengths of wire , bare on each end .

    Join three ends together so`s it`s one ( for power ), make one bare longer and join the other two to it . This is so the pin socket in the plug isn`t stretched as you`ll only be putting one thickness of wire in .

    The other end will be three bare wires .

    Remove the plug from the ECU as before with the ignition off . ( but turn ignition on when jumping )

    Plug the single end into pin 1 .

    To run the pump as needed jump one of the three ends in pin 8 ( there`s no need to run it all the time and you`ll hear what the solenoids are doing if it`s not )

    Use another wire to jump pin 10 ( left front spring valve ) and another to pin 26 ( air inlet ) .

    After you connect pin 26 the left front should start to rise .

    Pin 11 and pin 26 will raise left rear .

    Pin 27 and pin 26 will raise right front .

    Pin 28 and pin 26 will raise right rear .

    After you have it sitting around normal height ( not even , just up ) .

    Use Pin 9 ( exhaust valve ) in place of pin 26 and it should lower on each corner you select .

    If you do that much it will check some of the workings of the valve block and if one won`t go up or down ETC look there i guess .
    Last edited by PLR; 4th April 2016 at 04:38 PM. Reason: Add manual pinning

  4. #24
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    i removed the pump & hooked it to the battery.
    It ran fine, after plugging it all back together it runs off the car as is it should.
    back to where i started with the clicking coming from the valve body
    89 RRC
    92 RRC Sherwood

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverv8 View Post
    i removed the pump & hooked it to the battery.
    It ran fine, after plugging it all back together it runs off the car as is it should.
    back to where i started with the clicking coming from the valve body
    You could try above (edit ) if you like , it may show something .

  6. #26
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    ready to throw a grenade in it and run....
    89 RRC
    92 RRC Sherwood

  7. #27
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    Before the explosion ....

    The clicking/clacking sound you hear is an air valve being triggered, so "something" appears to be working...

    Air leaks, no matter how slow, WILL eventually kill a Range Rover's suspension...
    Start at the 'bags, then the hose connectors...all the way back to the valve body. - Spray around each of the black round thingies...

    Soapy water is fine, as is WINDEX, or go hi-tech and use bubble-mix... y'know, the stuff kids use to blow bubbles with.

    I'd start by manually inflating all 4 bags... - You have built up a 'Rescue Set' of air fillers/Schraeder valves.. have'nt you....?

    The other Sad News is... unless it's been done by a previous owner, the Valve Body will need an overhaul... new O rings etc throughout.
    Detailed instructions -with pictures - are here,
    somewhere....

    Frustrating YES, however the sense of Satisfaction, afterwards,,,,, is priceless

  8. #28
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    problem solved....
    fitted a set of springs...my dad feels alot better about them too, he doesn't have to worry about the eas letting him down. no pun intended...lol
    89 RRC
    92 RRC Sherwood

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverv8 View Post
    problem solved....
    fitted a set of springs...my dad feels alot better about them too, he doesn't have to worry about the eas letting him down. no pun intended...lol
    Yep , that will keep it up for a long time .

    Which springs were decided on ?

    Has he noticed much difference in ride quality ?

    Have you just replaced the air springs with coils or have you removed it all ?

  10. #30
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    Understand perfectly... given my time over again I would have done exactly that... with 'Firestone' (internal spring) bags in the rear, for manual load-levelling / headlight adjustment.

    You could... if desperate, go to full manual height control by adding the same type of internal-spring helpers to the FRONT coily thingies.

    IF...the pump is working OK, AND filling up the air-tank in acceptable time, I'd be inclined to leave it in...and use it as 'on-board air' - You would need it for the helper-bags.

    IMHO, the olde 89 Rover on coily thingies rode softer and nicer then my '95 EAS abomination.

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