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Thread: RRC No start

  1. #1
    samhoneychurch Guest

    RRC No start

    Hi all,
    I have purchased a 1989 RRC with a 3.9L (the block is apparently from an early 2000 4L disco), The body is in good knick as well as the interior.
    The vehicle was running extremely rough and whilst the coolant system was pressurised, it would leak coolant from the timing case.
    I have replaced the timing case gasket with the help from a knowledgable chap who was kind enough to give me a hand.
    I am unable to get the vehicle started now.
    I have replaced all lead/plugs and currently have the leads set up 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
    I am getting spark at the plugs and the dizzy is clean.
    I have done a compression test on all cylinders and get 130psi when cold.
    I can hear the fuel pump start up when the ignition is turned on.

    The vehicle is on gas and petrol. when i try and start it (with the timing roughly right) it sounds like it coughs occasionally but does not kick over.
    I am at my wits end and will be taking it to a range rover specialist in the south eastern suburbs on melbourne on friday if i can not get her going.
    Any advice or ways to test the fuel system would be extremely appreciative. (rail type fuel system off what i believe was the original engine)

    Thank you all!
    sam

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
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    You really need to be a little more precise with the ignition timing. With no.1 spark plug removed, turn the engine so that it is somewhere near TDC. Using a short length of heater hose, blow into no.1 cylinder. If the valves are closed you won't be able to blow air in and you're on the timing stroke. If air whistles into the cylinder and leaves by an open valve you're 1 turn out. Rotate the engine 1 turn so that you're on the firing stroke. Feel for TDC with a small screw driver down the plug hole and compare the timing marks on the front pulley. TDC should be very close to the one on the pulley.

    Now rotate the engine a fair ways anticlockwise then return clockwise to around 10 degrees BTDC. Next remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor button is pointing at no.1 ignition lead. Look down between the rotor button and the plastic cover and adjust the position of the distributor to line up the star rotor tooth and the pickup tooth. This will be much closer than any random guess. Be very careful when removing the rotor button as it's easy to break the little retainer clip that lives under the button.

    Fuel pressure can be tested at the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Injector function can be determined by a LED test light probed into one of the injector plugs. Injection only happens when the ignition is fully working as the RPM signal is a wire on the negative side of the ignition coil.

  3. #3
    samhoneychurch Guest
    Thank you very much bee utey,
    I will have a look at the old rangey tomorrow and get back to you.
    Appreciate the advice!
    cheers

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