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Thread: Heat from transmission tunnel

  1. #11
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    put some caps on the service ports that have 'O'rings in the lids. That way it won't leak through the valves ( easier IMO than changing the valves).
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    put some caps on the service ports that have 'O'rings in the lids. That way it won't leak through the valves ( easier IMO than changing the valves).
    Somehow I knew you'd mention that, but my original service caps actually had orings on them.

    The determination was made that the system outgassed from one of the service ports, and since replacing them as a complete unit is so cheap, it made sense to do so.
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mercguy View Post
    Somehow I knew you'd mention that, but my original service caps actually had orings on them.

    The determination was made that the system outgassed from one of the service ports, and since replacing them as a complete unit is so cheap, it made sense to do so.
    Interesting... I doubt it was the service valves in they had "O"ring caps on them I wonder if the gas will leak away again within a few months.

    Vacuum will not always show leaks. It may only leak when under pressure (rather than suction). Did you see if it held nitrogen over a period of time?

    seeya
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  4. #14
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    I actually have the old service valves - I brought them back with me. Yes, it held pressure - but the tests were done on 2 separate days. Was not worried about it, because the sight glass in the rec/drier still showed refrigerant when compressor was on.
    The usual suspects - aka pressure switches, tx valve etc were checked, but the whole setup looked like it had only recently been replaced - all new high & low hoses, the service valves were not in the Original locations etc etc. I was going to lay money on it being a crimp on one of the hoses.... turns out that the last person to touch the service valve (an apprentice) 'may' have inadvertently screwed it back on too tight... there are obvious witness marks in the cap from the schrader valve touching the step on the low pressure service valve cap, but both caps have been excessively tightened as the orings are nearly crushed flat.

    Hence the new service valves. cheap & efective. about 4 bucks each from memory. (bulk from ashdowns)
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...
    MY92 RRC 3.9 Ardennes Green
    MY93 RRC LSE 300tdi/R380/LT230 British Racing Green
    MY99 D2 V8 Kinversand

  5. #15
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    Hi All

    Appreciate the advice on air conditioning system .....The post seems to have morphed in that direction

    Is there any issues I will have due to the pump being removed and the system exposed to the atmosphere .....

    Air-conditioning pump still sitting the shed.

    Local mechanic said not good having system exposed to atmosphere as internal parts of pipes can rust causing other problems and the system to fail.

    I know nothing about air conditioning systems .....

    Cheers

    Baggy

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baggy View Post
    Hi All

    Appreciate the advice on air conditioning system .....The post seems to have morphed in that direction

    Is there any issues I will have due to the pump being removed and the system exposed to the atmosphere .....

    Air-conditioning pump still sitting the shed.

    Local mechanic said not good having system exposed to atmosphere as internal parts of pipes can rust causing other problems and the system to fail.

    I know nothing about air conditioning systems .....

    Cheers

    Baggy
    There is quite a few fridgies on here ... if you make a post down in the technical section, one of them usually replies. I've only done system that was "open" for a period of time. That was the one I fitted to one of my old cars.

    I just flushed everything with shellite and lots of compressed air.... and changed the oil in the compressor ( you can't leave the oil exposed to air, it takes up moisture rapidly). I never did figure out the recharge oil amount. The old SD compressor in that car had a dipstick you could make up. You first had to regass and use the system... then recover the refrigerant... crack the oil filler plug open on the compressor and use your fabricated dipstick to find the oil level... adjust the level if required.... then re-vac it down .. recharge with refrigerant etc....

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  7. #17
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baggy View Post
    Hi All

    Appreciate the advice on air conditioning system .....The post seems to have morphed in that direction

    Is there any issues I will have due to the pump being removed and the system exposed to the atmosphere .....

    Air-conditioning pump still sitting the shed.

    Local mechanic said not good having system exposed to atmosphere as internal parts of pipes can rust causing other problems and the system to fail.

    I know nothing about air conditioning systems .....

    Cheers

    Baggy
    As alluded to above, the compressor oil has to be changed, the drier has to be replaced, and if you can get the rest of the system flushed that would be good. Unlike, for instance, a leaky gearbox, aircon is one of those things where the whole system has to be in excellent shape to work properly, otherwise it's just one headache after another.
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  8. #18
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    Thanks Shane and Davo ....

    Shane I'll post something in the technical section and go from there.

    Davo - Understand its a system you either do it properly or don't do it at all....that's why this forum is such a wealth of knowledge for those of us who don't know.

    I'll check my local mechanic that services our company vehicles to try and get my head around cost involved.
    If they can give me an indication of cost (budget purposes) this will tell me how realistic reinstating the air- con will be and going cap in hand to SWAMBO

    Would the process be:

    a) Refit compressor - Ill do that myself
    b) Flush system
    c) Regas system
    d) Check for leaks (holding vacuum)
    e) Replace dodgy hoses
    f) Recover refrigerant
    g) Change oil in compressor
    h) Regas System
    i) Replace dryer
    j) WORKING SYSTEM

    Understand that doesn't take into account if the compressor is not leaking either.


    Cheers

    Baggy

  9. #19
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    Don't forget I still have the compressor ex that wrecked 93 chassis you had - with the pipe ends sealed.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
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  10. #20
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baggy View Post
    Thanks Shane and Davo ....

    Shane I'll post something in the technical section and go from there.

    Davo - Understand its a system you either do it properly or don't do it at all....that's why this forum is such a wealth of knowledge for those of us who don't know.

    I'll check my local mechanic that services our company vehicles to try and get my head around cost involved.
    If they can give me an indication of cost (budget purposes) this will tell me how realistic reinstating the air- con will be and going cap in hand to SWAMBO

    Would the process be:

    a) Refit compressor - Ill do that myself
    b) Flush system
    c) Regas system
    d) Check for leaks (holding vacuum)
    e) Replace dodgy hoses
    f) Recover refrigerant
    g) Change oil in compressor
    h) Regas System
    i) Replace dryer
    j) WORKING SYSTEM

    Understand that doesn't take into account if the compressor is not leaking either.


    Cheers

    Baggy
    Theoretically, yes. Except compressor oil absorbs water so it might be worth changing first. And if the system is in bits then it might be best to flush it all now. Was it R12 or R134 originally? Of course, as Mercguy, (and I, a few years ago), found out, the evaporator in the footwell will need a good clean too. Unless you did that already - I've lost track!
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

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