Huge steering shake

Thanks Guys,

I'll do the fix linked above ... When I get the damn car home. As it is, I still can't see how on earth that dizzie goes back together. I pulled the dizzie of the other car in desperation...

[Attachment 122229Attachment 122230Attachment 122231'


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...1&d=1492739813

simple and obvious... and bloody different. even thought he dizzie is the same model number.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...9&d=1492739813

this one is setup like this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...0&d=1492739813

no matter which way I put the weights in the bottom, or pivot on top... the springs are to long.

does anyone have a picture of how this mongrel goes back together. I'm going to put the other dizzie into it to try and get it home.

seeya,
Shane L.

Getting back to the original issue....

In almost all cases, vibration such as this does not have a single cause. You get a series of minor defects, swivel preload, tyre balance, tie rod ends, panhard bushes, until the free play (TREs, panhard bushes, radius arm bushes) is sufficient for the vibration to be noticeable, plus not enough damping to stop it (swivels, damper, steering geometry), plus something to start it (wheel balance, road bumps).

Often, fix one and the vibration goes away, only to return in a short while, and perhaps not be fixed by the same thing.

In this case, perhaps the extreme failure of the panhard bushes may be a result of the vibration, after their being a bit soft allowed it.

I would carefully check everything else as well!

You've got your weights on the wrong pins. I don't have a dismantled one handy but can see clearly enough in mine that you need to move the weights to the other posts.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bee utey

You've got your weights on the wrong pins. I don't have a dismantled one handy but can see clearly enough in mine that you need to move the weights to the other posts.

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Yeah, I've tried every variation I can think of. I just took the other dizzie over to the car ... and found I had no rotor button there... there both sitting here at home beside the computer..... Do you get the feeling I'm driving myself insane .... For no good reason ... So I still don't even know if this is the issue.... Or self inflicted damage.

Oh, the other pair of posts... I don't think the holes in the weights are big enough to go on them. THey are stops of some sort.

seeya,
Shane L.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

Yeah, I've tried every variation I can think of. I just took the other dizzie over to the car ... and found I had no rotor button there... there both sitting here at home beside the computer..... Do you get the feeling I'm driving myself insane .... For no good reason ... So I still don't even know if this is the issue.... Or self inflicted damage.

Oh, the other pair of posts... I don't think the holes in the weights are big enough to go on them. THey are stops of some sort.

seeya,
Shane L.

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I don't really care if you've tried and failed, the weights go on the short pins and the long pins are for the springs. I even managed to take a picture through a small gap of the pickup plate.

Attachment 122239

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bee utey

I don't really care if you've tried and failed, the weights go on the short pins and the long pins are for the springs. I even managed to take a picture through a small gap of the pickup plate.

Attachment 122239

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Thanks,, I tried to get those weights on those pins several times last night... and the pins felt to be about 1/2mm to big for the holes. I just tried it now and they slid straight on ..... See what I mean, driving myself insane for no good reason :(

The spring are the perfect length now. I'll go do you fix to stop this happening again.

seeya,
Shane L.

For the first time ever .... I thought "bugger this" and one of my cars didn't come home under it's own power. You see we are going away for a couple of months this year in the range rover ... And my wife insisted I we get RACV coverage. So I thought "bugger it, that cost us $300+ bucks" ... So an hour later the rangie is sitting home in the drive.

I pulled it in the shed last night and just went out this morning ( in daylight, without rain ... and without cars whizzing by)..... The very first thing I notice. I turn the ignition on and there is no "thump" of all the gas solenoids activating ...... Oh...... guess to the moron is .... Ok. what about petrol pump .... cycle the key on and off, and no, I can't hear the pump running for a few seconds like it should (I did't notice this on the side of the road with the noise of traffic).

I've now chased the wiring for the switch down to the injection computer and out under the bonnet, across to the converter, then down underneath to the back. The whole thing must source the power from the back somewhere (how bizarre, why wouldn't you grab some nice 12volt source from under the bonnet). I can't think of any 12volt power source at the back of the car grunty enough to run this stuff. I guess I"ll keep following wiring until I find it hooking into the power .... somewhere.... I hope I don't have to drop the damn tanks to see what and where the wiring goes, 'cos I just filled the bloody things. They'll weigh a ton!

seeya,
Shane L.

Gee's the wiriing for the gas on this car is ****house.... somehow it's lasted probably 15 years though. It looks like it's all powered by the fuel pump at the back. I just went searching for the fuel pump fuse (found under the drivers seat if you ever want to search for this). She instantly fired to life on petrol ... but won't run on lpg. I'd say we have a short in the dodgy gas wiring somewhere... or possibly a gas solenoid that is shorted. It's not enough to blow the fuse instantly... but it's enough to take the circuit out by the looks of it. This is all fun right ?? I'll spend a few hours now fixing all the gas wiring and mounting it all down firmly.

seeya,
shane L.

Some gas solenoid coils contain a clamping diode to suppress voltage spikes. Their failure mode is to short circuit. Hit them with enough current (straight to the battery) and the diode blows up and leaves the coil operational. You can add an external diode if it makes you feel good but it'll probably work just fine without it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bee utey

Some gas solenoid coils contain a clamping diode to suppress voltage spikes. Their failure mode is to short circuit. Hit them with enough current (straight to the battery) and the diode blows up and leaves the coil operational. You can add an external diode if it makes you feel good but it'll probably work just fine without it.

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Wow... How on earth do you know all this stuff :) Thanks!

There is two lock off solenoids at the converter ... one on the sill. They all measured about the same resistance. There will probably be one at each tank as well, but I can't isolate the wiring to check them without dropping the tanks. So I have approached this from a different angle.

I removed the 5amps fuse and put my multi-meter across it ... running on petrol we have 5.3amps ............... bugger it the PETROL fuel pump must be faulty. It should obviously draw far less than the 5 amps the fuse is rated at. If I flick it onto lpg, the draw is 8.6amps. That is five seperate lock off valves if there is one on each tank being powered. So they are certainly fine ( that is far less than 1 amp per solenoid on them ).

So I've found lots of dodgy wiring ... and none of it is the problem. The problem must be the fuel pump (that strangely does work fine).

seeya,
Shane L.