Yeah- mind you have to admit our friends new 3 series Mazda is nice. And their 150 Prado with 200thousand ks on it stlll drives nice not a squeak not a rattle perfect a/c etc. all jokes aside both bloody good means of transport[emoji15]
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Yeah- mind you have to admit our friends new 3 series Mazda is nice. And their 150 Prado with 200thousand ks on it stlll drives nice not a squeak not a rattle perfect a/c etc. all jokes aside both bloody good means of transport[emoji15]
UUUURrrrrrrhhhhhh..... I'd rather push one of my ****ty cars than drive something like that (infact I often do [bigwhistle] ). I've just noticed today .... The car always cranked for about 5 seconds before starting on petrol. You can now hear the pump howl ... then slow down before it cycles off ( when you first turn the key). Then the motor starts instantly on petrol without cranking. It's now starting on gas properly too (I'm guessing there was too much voltage drop while cranking for the gas solenoids to open properly).Quote:
Originally Posted by Meccles
I'm very thankful I've found this problem now ... and not on the side of the road ... with the caravan on.
seeya,
Shane L.
You have no idea the bloody run-around this car has given me for the last few weeks. I couldn't even drive it across town and back without it starting to miss and carry on..... Check this out. I have spent bloody HOURs tearing my hair out ... I've tried different dizzie (with different pickup and ignition module), different dizzie caps and rotor buttons.... spent ages tracing through the wiring (which is all ****house, but seems ok). I was sidetracked by finding the air gap on the dizzie pickups was too large .... side tracked by the fuel tank not venting so causing separate lean running issues..... I pulled the intake side down and check/re-sealed everything. But the damn car continued to drive me absolutely insane. I couldn't rely on it to even do the school run without playing up.
In desperation I thought I'll pull the AEB ignition advance unit out ... and see if the symptoms change. It wouldn't be this as this would either work or not work ... not this intermittent bull****.
It looks nicely sealed up with big rubber boots protecting the wiring and dip switch covers........... However I noticed the bottom appeared to just "snap out" to open it up ...... Surely that's not moisture proof ... ??
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...2&d=1494896606
Simple electronics .... no obvious liek bulging caps etc.... (it is only a year or so old).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...3&d=1494896606
That is RUST ... not burnt.... The damn thing isn't sealed .. so can fill with moisture if your not careful enough to mount it somwhere it'll never get damp (where would that be under the bonnet of a 4wd ? ... that gets used as it should ? ).... Anyway, it would run even though it had moisture in it against the circuit board, but what would cause it to do really weird things,.... is the thing is it's own little hot house. Once we had heat under the bonnet, water would condense over everything and bam ... we have lots of running problems.
I haven't been for a good drive yet to verify, but I reckon I've finally found the problem.
seeya,
shane L.
Toss it, go back to the Bosch module remote mounted dizzy solution. I put a huge CPU heatsink on the module and fan. Works a treat. Mind you, I did overhaul the dizzy and did the Bee Utey shaft mod, as well as played with the advance weights, springs and shimmed the shaft for play. No ignition problems since. no hesitation, no surging... but I don't run gas either. just set it to 12deg static and vroom (as much as a 350,000km 3.9 can go 'vroom')Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
;)
I thought about those units and have a couple of the jaycar versions still in the packet, after reading through the literature I decided the Bosch module was a better option... because it was SEALED .. :o
Thanks for convincing me I was right. :D
That's an ignition advance module for LPG running. It advance the ignition by a set amount over the petrols settings. IT does work extremely well ...... when not full of water ..... grrrrr.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercguy
Shane, sounds like you need to clean the board, check it for damage and when it's working and dry, spray it with conformal coating / epoxy dip.
Yeah, I've dried it out and brushed it with a soft stainless steel brush where it's rusty. You know, some of the pins have rusted away, but only one track I can find on the whole board doesn't have continuity ... and it goes nowhere (ie: it runs to a blank spot where a chip isn't .... that chip must be used on a different model advance unit). It seems to be working now, but I'll know over the next few days.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercguy
seeya,
Shane L.
Hmmm I have one of those units after you got yours.
looks like I will check mine out on the weekend.
that CCT board is repairable.
but do spray some sort of barrier on the board..epoxy or silicon...
as an electronics tech most of my life I have seen a lot worse on video cameras and cash registers that I was able to repair...
Brad[bigsmile1]