Thread: RRC Roof Removal - Tips / Tricks?

Relatively simple but tedious job, there are screws along the top of the windscreen frame inside the car and apart from the screws under those grommets in the door openings there are some above the quarter windows inside the car and the ones at the back are under (on a 1986 at least) pieces of gaffer tape. The roof I removed (from a 1986 high line) was bonded to the body with double-sided foam adhesive tape.

Checking in my 1985 which currently has no headliner in it, there are 10 phillips heads at the front, 15 on each side and 10 at the back, so 50 in total just for the roof. The wiring harness needs to be dropped down on the passenger side of the car and the rear window wiper motor also needs to be removed to access some of the screws in the rear passenger corner. From memory I slowly broke the seal of the adhesive by pushing the handle of a mallet or such up along the sides. I used a 1/4" ratchet with extensions and bit coupler to remove mine, a drill would also be good.

Everything inside my 1985 under the headliner looks like new.

Thanks, that's great information.
Interesting note about the doublesided foam tape. I think this may potentially have been a source for previous water ingress along the roofline.

Since I have replaced the windscreen with a new one and new rubber, sealed it with urethane at the front, it only makes sense to do the same with the roof.

I know I only have to remove the roof lining, but figured killing 2 birds with one stone is worthwhile.

Originally Posted by Mercguy

Thanks, that's great information.
Interesting note about the doublesided foam tape. I think this may potentially have been a source for previous water ingress along the roofline.

Since I have replaced the windscreen with a new one and new rubber, sealed it with urethane at the front, it only makes sense to do the same with the roof.

I know I only have to remove the roof lining, but figured killing 2 birds with one stone is worthwhile.

If you seal it with a urethane ...... It's NEVER coming off again!

That's right I don't want it to 'ever' come off. The plus is that sikaflex provides a structural bond as well as weatherproofing, something the double sided tape won't.

When I first cleaned it with the pressure washer, There was quite a bit of moisture ingress, due to my pretty aggressive cleaning techniques used on the panel gaps / door jambs etc.

Well, we had a horrible 2.5 weeks of sideways rain here recently and so much volume that inevitably some moisture crept inside the vehicle. Not anything to worry about mind you, but enough to raise awareness.

The roof could do with a bit of TLC, as a small section of clearcoat came off during the storms, something I noticed last week. So I had the idea of getting the roof blasted and powdercoated silver - maybe it's enough to make 'nice' ?

I thought the silver might additionally help reflect some heat.

It was simply an idea, I can sand it back and respray it as well, but the powdercoating guy's just up the road and I'm sure it wouldn't be any less expensive than a pro sprayjob. Probably last longer too.... one would hope.

like I said, just an idea at the moment, I have to execute on the plan soon though, a saggy headliner is not much fun.

Originally Posted by Mercguy

So I had the idea of getting the roof blasted and powdercoated silver - maybe it's enough to make 'nice' ? I thought the silver might additionally help reflect some heat.

My dark (Niagra) LSE has a silver roof, and although I can't do any before and after tests (was done before I bought it) it is certainly cooler than other cars with dark roofs. Go for it.

If you Sikaflex the roof on, you will be amazed at the increase in structural rigidity. I just did my old 2 door many years ago, just from the outside and the decrease in rattling and banging on dirt roads was really noticeable.

Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by Mercguy

That's right I don't want it to 'ever' come off. The plus is that sikaflex provides a structural bond as well as weatherproofing, something the double sided tape won't.

Mastic could be an alternative as well?

If you didn't want the advantage of a structural bond then the mastic would work - used in windscreen applications for decades, but it's not for me.