Reply With QuoteTo be honest, really the best thing with Rover V8 ignition is to replace everything with the best parts you can buy. There are so many ways they can let you down it's not worth taking chances.
And welcome to the best part of the forum!
Hi all,
I've got a 1986 Auto 3.5l v8 Rangie Classic that has been sitting in my storage shed for 4 years and I am no trying to get it back on the road. It was working before the fuel tank taken out to fix a broken return spout and then being put on the back-burner and stuck into storage. Now, I need it, I have put the tank back in, replaced all the fuel hoses but can't get it to start. I have been through all the EFI tests and everything comes up fine until I get near the coil and amplifier.
I have a 1987 Electrical Workshop Manual which, under test 3, Amplifier Switch, states to put the voltmeter from the positive on the battery to the negative on the coil. I should get 0 volts with the ignition off, then 0 volts with the ignition on and when cranking my volts should increase. My readings are a 13v with the ignition off, 0.37 volts with the ignition on, and up to 1.7 volts whilst cranking. So, there appears to be an issue here, however, this is the 1987 Manual not the 86 one. So, my first question is whether any knows if test results should be same? Then, if so, is this indicative of a coil problem or an amplifier one?
Which leads to the question of how do I test the amplifier, which is the separate Lucas 2CE unit? Is there a way of testing this unit with the multimeter if so does someone know the test specs or point me in the right direction.
Then, with the coil, can someone point me to where I can find the specs to test the circuits of the coil with the multimeter? It is a Lucas RTC5628.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Wayne.
ChatterBox
To be honest, really the best thing with Rover V8 ignition is to replace everything with the best parts you can buy. There are so many ways they can let you down it's not worth taking chances.
And welcome to the best part of the forum!
At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
Super Moderator & CA manager
SubscriberHopefully Bee Utey will see this and have a say - he's the local wizard here for all things ignition as well as a lot of other things. He's got a tuitorial here somewhere on replacing the crappy Lucas amp with a Bosch BIM024 unit which you can find on a lot of 80's model cars and can still buy new - a very worthwhile mod if you are doubting the existing amp. I'll see if I can dig up a link to that.
The 86 flapper EFI is the same as the 87, it only changed when they went to the 14CUX EFI system in 1990 I think.
Oh, and welcome to the forum.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Super Moderator & CA manager
SubscriberHere 'tis - Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024
A simple and worthwhile Mod even I feel you amp isn't stuffed, this will make sure it's right and stays right as these things don't die like the Lucas units do.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
AT REST
From a cursory search it seems that your ignition amp is the one in a tin box under the coil. This is actually a Chev HEI module and is functionally the same as a Bosch BIM024, except of course the terminals are a bit different. From memory the distributor pickup plug that goes in the side of the tin box can be plugged directly onto a BIM024, except you need to trim the wide terminal next to the narrow one and fit the plug in the reverse way to the way it wants to fit. The conversion thread is here:
Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024
The Lucas coil is a dinosaur and best replaced by a used Bosch coil off a later D1 or RRC electronic ignition. These rarely fail.
Super Moderator & CA manager
SubscriberThere you go, ask and he appears.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Thanks all.
Bee utey, it is in the tin box under the coil. Do you know a way I can test the amplifier unit for sure? The Electronics Workshop Manual deals with the amplifier unit on the side of the distributor and nothing I have seen gives me a specific way of testing the amplifier. However, I have seen somewhere on either this user group or the English one that the amplifier unit can be tested with a multimeter via the pins.
The coil is sparking strongly but I know I can test the coil by checking the resistance of primary and secondary binding within the coil with a multimeter but I need the acceptable resistance range for coil. Does anyone know where I can find this information on the Lucas RTC 5628 coil.
Wayne.
AT REST
I don't have any "test procedures" for modules other than:
Connect power>>>spin distributor>>>observe monster spark>>>bewdy. Mostly I do this on the bench with the distributor removed for service or repairs, or using a spare distributor for the test of a module.
These things generally either work or they don't, with a proviso that sometimes they fail only when hot. The most common failure mode when hot is the dirty or loose connection scenario, AKA "terminal disease". Remove every connection, clean, tighten as appropriate.
Oh and testing the pickup coil in the distributor is a separate matter and can indeed be done with a mulitmeter set on resistance. See the thread for details.
Most coil failures are the breakdown of resistance in the high voltage section, a multimeter won't find those. Swapping with a known good coil is the best test.
Swaggie
SubscriberCan I suggest that you start from the other end.
Make sure you have a fully charged battery.
Pull one plug lead off and hold it about 3mm from the spark plug top and get someone to apply the starter. Check if a spark jumps across reliably.
If no then look more closely at the ignition.
If yes pull the spark plugs and clean them. If flooded they will be wet. Suggest fit a new set of plugs.
Maybe at this stage try some Start you Bastard and if it fires , you know it is injection.
There are also many reasons for no start other than ignition such a thermo time unit not working , start injector blocked. all injectors blocked from dried out fuel. Fuel pump stuffed.
Regards Philip A
Wizard
SupporterG`day , ours give similar to what you have and is running it has always disagreed with the manual .Originally Posted by Scrubwa
12.32 off 0.22 on and 1.19 crank
In this case i believe the manual is actually wrong .
Is this spark from the coil lead with the engine turning over or by other means ?
If you have a normal spark as in test 1 do test 4 , if you get a spark at the rotor that is the fault .
If you have spark other than at the plugs look at the coil lead , cap , rotor etc .
The only time ours has ever lost spark at the plug leads has been a lead the cap or rotor .
It still has the same amp and coil it was born with in 1984 (although an 85 model year ) it being one of the first RR with the type ignition .
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