They can be very stiff. A clean and a bit lubrication can help. I've done it a few times on my green RRC but it tightens up after a while. On the other hand my Red RRC doesn't seem to suffer the problem I have no idea why!
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						SubscriberCan someone share the exploded view/pictures behind the door card on a 2 door RRC?
I feel like I'm going to snap the key every time I lock/unlock the passenger door and i cant even lock it from the inside.
I feel like something is bent or something and I need to pull it apart and repair or replace. Before I do, I'd like to know what it *should* look like so I can troubleshoot.
N
Current: ‘16 Disco Sport (7seater) aka « Family Bus 2 »
Sadly Gone: '77 RRC 2 Door aka "Beast"
Gone: '92 RRC Vogue SE aka "The Family Bus"
Long Gone: '99 Td5 Defender aka "The TANK!"
They can be very stiff. A clean and a bit lubrication can help. I've done it a few times on my green RRC but it tightens up after a while. On the other hand my Red RRC doesn't seem to suffer the problem I have no idea why!
2022 Defender D250 S being set up for touring.
'83 RRC 2 door 300tdi on club plates
'82 RRC 2 door almost finished on club plates (will always be nearly finished!)
2013 Freelander (wife's)
1994 Defender ute hopefully on club plates one day
IME the most common cause is that the outside door handle has not retracted flush with the door skin.
Trying to force the key to unlock in this situation will only break the plastic ball connector in the mechanism.
DL
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						SubscriberCurrent: ‘16 Disco Sport (7seater) aka « Family Bus 2 »
Sadly Gone: '77 RRC 2 Door aka "Beast"
Gone: '92 RRC Vogue SE aka "The Family Bus"
Long Gone: '99 Td5 Defender aka "The TANK!"
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						SupporterDouble on the clean, however I found to minimize reocurrence (done it once in 26 years of ownership and my daily drive) it is best to remove lock mechanism completely from door and clean thoroughly as you will find dust has penetrated right into the lock. Fiddly but doable with a bit of patience. Just follow it through step by step. If I remember right you may need to take off window frame as well, not as hard as it sounds, for extra room.
If it isn't the door handle issue the next step is to take the door card off and have a look.
This will not help with the locking mechanism, which can be lubed with silicon or similar spray directly at the end of the door.
The door card is not hard to get off if you are somewhat adept with tools to get all the handles off first and then you'll see how it all works, what is slack and how to adjust it, etc.
cheers, DL
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						SubscriberThanks guys. I took the door card off and it appears whoever made/attached the current door cards is a total Muppet.
Door cards are made of plain MDF. The door cards are swollen and rubbing on everything. Not to mention all the spray on glue over all the moving parts.
Cleaned it all up and left the door cards off (for now) and all seems reasonable.
Current: ‘16 Disco Sport (7seater) aka « Family Bus 2 »
Sadly Gone: '77 RRC 2 Door aka "Beast"
Gone: '92 RRC Vogue SE aka "The Family Bus"
Long Gone: '99 Td5 Defender aka "The TANK!"
That's a good result.
Just remember not to force the key, ever.
The little ball joints made out of England's finest plastic, many Royal embarrassments ago, will split.
Not only are they most likely unobtainable, they are in a place that the alternative I use (made from 19mm irrigation stirrups) is very hard to access.
You now have the chance to adjust the linkages and lube everything and make it good again.
DL
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						At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
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						Master
					
					
						SubscriberHave you got the dimensions, cutout details, fixing points Etc of the Cards?
Might be an(other) weekend project in the pipeline
Current: ‘16 Disco Sport (7seater) aka « Family Bus 2 »
Sadly Gone: '77 RRC 2 Door aka "Beast"
Gone: '92 RRC Vogue SE aka "The Family Bus"
Long Gone: '99 Td5 Defender aka "The TANK!"
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