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Nope, the rear resonator pulls through to the front, done it more than once. Even easier if you run a hot dog resonator. There's a whole bunch of rotating, grimacing and shoving to do but it usually works. If you lack height under the vehicle you cut the pipe before the rear resonator, easier to get at for welding afterwards.Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
I did try that and just couldn't see a way it would come through. I bet I need to jack the car up by the chassis to provide more clearance and not have a large odd shaped resonator. I will certainly try again now I know its possible (the car had a long narrow resonator that couldn't get around the corners).Quote:
Originally Posted by bee utey
Well I'm going to whip up tomorrow and buy the cheapest oil can I cand find (as brake fluid will trash the seals no doubt)Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
https://youtu.be/4-XjNLm7358
This is brilliant! Just use a simple oil can and fill it from the bottom up.
Oh I have also figured out why Beutey has said so many times "you must put the LPG converter in series with the heater... not parallel".... I can't even get coolant flow the damn thing to bleed it when its in parallel. I'm pretty sure the heater core is always hot too (ie: the mixer flap turns the heater off, not a tap in the coolant line). I will whip up tomorrow and grab some hose fittings to run the sucker parallel.
seeya,
Shane L.
This bloody car is rapidly driving me insane. Its about 50degrees in the shed each night. Everything under the car is pretty much buttoned up... The oil can trick worked brilliantly!!. $10 oil can from total tools (500ml) ... and it filled from the bottom up in about 3minutes. Then I rapidly pumped the pedal a few dozen times and suddenly had a clutch ( what a brilliant way of doing it). Its just a shame I didn't realise I needed to remove the dust cap from the bleed nipple while the driveline was on the floor of my shed.. You can't get to the damn thing, but I ended up having to completely remove the aggravating bastard of a thing and cutting the dust cap off with a knife.Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
Now the reversing lights never worked properly either. I could never fix this as you can't get to the reverse switch while the engine/gearbox is in the car. Anyway, I found the switch had two copper washers under it rather than one (so was about 2mm to shallow into the recess). Removing one of the washers fixed this.
I just finished hooking up the gearbox/transfer case harness. I'll give you one guess what I DON'T have..... Yep, the god damn reversing lights. I bet one of the wires has broken off the switch (they are molded into it). You have to remove everything I've spend each night for the last week trying to fit .... and drop the gearbox back down to access the switch. I'm thinking I might screwi a universal switch to the selector mechanism on top rather than going to all the effort of dropping the gearbox back down (ie: remove the cross member, removing the prop shafts, removing the clutch slave line, removing the exhaust ..... AARRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrhhhhhhhhhhhh.
seeya,
Shane L.
Whats the age old saying One Step Forward Two Steps Backward [bighmmm]
Must. Not. Laugh. must. not. must.....
[bigrolf]
Love the reverse bleed method that’s awesome
This morning I don't have a clutch pedal until its pumped a few dozen times. So there is obviously still air in there. I'll try the single man bleeder on it. At least I have a pedal I can try to bleed. I think where I went wrong is I should have pumped the pedal ( slowly, gently) once or twice while I was back filing it.... to push any air up and out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Meccles
seeya
Shane L.
On brakes on some vehicles, we when we were having trouble getting a peddle , we would pump up the peddle then using a bit of wood between steering wheel & peddle to hold the peddle down leave it sit over night & the air wouls work its way back to the reservior & would have a good peddle in the morning. Have necer had to do it with a clutch so not sure if it will work.
One of the tricks we use to bleed the clutch on certain Mercedes models is to bleed the front right caliper first, then when the fluids clean, attach a line from the brake to the clutch slave cyl, and pump the brakes.
On These specific models, the clutch and brake master reservoir are the same (shared), so there is no fluid loss per-se - just the air bubbles purged.
If the master reservoirs aren't shared, obviously you'd have to add fluid to the brake master and remove it from the clutch master if bleeding this way. It's just pressure bleeding in reverse, and damn handy when the slave is all but totally inaccessible.
On my 16v, I ran a braided bleed line from the bleed nipple back up to the master reservoir, and fitted a speed bleeder to the end. Makes "normal" bleeding a very straightforward task and annual flushing a 5 minute job instead of a 3 hour one.