Thread: Paint

Originally Posted by 1950landy

On the Triumph 2.5 manuals we used to unbolt the slave cylinder & because they had a plastic feed pipe lift the S/Cyl above the M/Cyl to bleed them . Can't remember how we stopped the piston from coming out , may have had a circlip . That was 40 odd years ago . IT'S A BUGGER GETTING OLD
The other method I mentioned we used on Mk2 Zephyrs always had to keep them over night , even with a pressure bleeder you would never get a peddle. Austin Freeways we had to remove the brake drums one at a time , back adjusters off then hold the shoes in with tyre leavers . then using a pressure bleeder have some one pump the peddle slowly with a hose into a bottle . We did all 4 wheels that way then adjusted the brakes & would have a peddle. If we didn't do them this way we could spend all day bleeding & still have no peddle at the end just like a S1 LR. I tried this method on my S1 but didn't work.

I still haven't got back to this yet. I have however started re-assembling from the back. We now have a tailgate and lights on the back (which took a surprisling large amount of time to find the bits to assemble given I have two of them). It didn't help I emptied all of the parts car out onto the ground looking for stuff..... Then proceeded to back the car over one of the boxes of bits. Don't worry, it was the box of tail lights and mirrors from the car. Not the boxes of heavy metal parts. So I didn't hurt the tires in the slightest I think I "might" still have enough bits to re-assemble just one ( I didn't need spare wing mirrors and lights right ?

seeya,
Shane L.

You'll get there Shane.

Looking forward to seeing this beast one day.

DL

slowly getting there .... Once it re-assembled I'll sand the paint flat and give it a good polish.




everything I should be cleaning and painting as I re-assemble................... I'm not .... Don't ask about the missing indicator lense. There is two of those bastards things here............................... Damned if I know where, I spent a solid 2hours looking for them last night (I must have put them in a safe place so they wouldn't get damaged).





I just need to paint and bolt the bumper on ... and bolt the glass hatch on.



I swore I wasn't going waste my time with old **** like this in the future ... My wallet said it didn't want to buy a new exhaust yet though .... sigh..... I think this is the first leak free exhaust I've ever had on one of these cars. Can you count the six different welded sections there .... It sure does sound nice with no exhaust leaks.



This is a really cheap reverse camera.... I've wired it through under the car (the wireless ones I've tried in the past are hopeless). These are really cheap, but it looks like it should work perfectly. The only use I really have for it is to back up to trailers/caravans. So the camera is pointed to the ground .... it drives me crazy the geting in and out a dozen times to line up perfectly. With a camera you can back the ball straight under the receiver.



the camera is just stuck on with double sided tape between the numberplate lights.



I swapped the injectors and pressure regulator over from the other motor as it was running very poorly on petrol ( obvious leaking injectors ... it would barely idle while running rich as buggery). It now runs lovely but leans out and dies if plenty of throttle is used. I think those small 28litres fuel tanks fry the fuel pumps ... It'll need a new fuel pump and a fuel filter while I'm under there, and I'm sure it'll now be fine.



Does anyone have any ideas on how you refit these things? They are certainly going to prove a good challenge!

seeya,
Shane L.

I tackled the rear bar today... It sure was nice and toasty warm in the shed. The bar was a really ugly faded blue that matches the car. I'm not fond of this look at all. Especially when the paint is faded and scratched everywhere. To get it looking decent you would need to sandblast the entire thing back to bare metal (as the scratches through several layers of paint are quite deep). The issue with doing this is it'll cost me hours standing infront of a sandblaster .... or hours standing behind a strip it disc .... Then add on the time and expense of priming and top coating it ....

Then the first time I park it anywhere an asshole would scratch it ( I'm not exaggerating. I have even had two people back into this car in petrol stations while I'm standing there filling it with LPG ). I don't know why poeple want to "bump" into such a big ugly 4wd with this sort of bar work on it .... But they do




Everyone is going to think I suck for this .... But stoneguard paint! You see I just used a flap disc in the grinder and feathered out all the scratches and ground any surface rust back... Then sprayed this on.







I quite like the look, and its very easy to touch up.

The next issue of course is .... a shiny car and tidy bar and it looks bloody terrible.... Remember way, way, way eariler in this thread. I mentioned the 3 of these things I've had have crooked rear bars.



And they all either had bent chassis, or the rear of the chassis was build 10mm different in height.

Well the left mounting bolt is slightly in from the chassis rail.... So I found a couple of spacers that measured about 9.6mm with the calipers.



And it looks pretty close. Certainly it doesn't look very crooked like they always do.



Another fun fact I noticed... There is 4 bolt across the cross member... The outer two whoever fitted the rear bar obvously drilled. The two I'm using have actually slightly crushed the cross member where the bolts have been tightened ( Note: I have added plates under them).



See the two middle bolt holes.... They must be the factory towbar mounts. Note: the tubes running through the cross member so its not being crushed by the clamping force of the bolts. You probably don't need the outer two.



Now I just need to measure that gap between the cross member and the step with my micrometer and make up a couple of spacers for here before I bolt it all in. Yes I know, I make everything difficult for no reason

Will be well worth the faffing about to get it right now it has a shiny car to hang off. 👍

It would easily be 50degrees C in the shed today. And the boss women decided she was going to take the kids out shopping to the shopping center next to spotlight.... "Can you grab me a couple of meters of black vinyl from Spotlight .... it should be about $10bucks a meter from memory"...... Oh yeah, she was one not happy boss women when she discovered it was $30.00 a meter *after* they had gone and cut it off the roll and got it for her On the plus side I probably only needed 1/2 meters ... so now I have a handy 1.5meters of vinyl left over. Its only about $15 of vinyl required .... Not $60



I was initially going to just paint these... But trying to strip the old glue off was incredibly difficult and time consuming.



I just traced around these things and left plenty to fold over.





The glue said only coat one side .. unless one of the surface being glued is porous. The vinyl soaked it in like a sponge. This is just really cheap contact adhesive from bunnings that I already had here.



talk about lazy! New glue over the top of the old. That stuff is almost impossible to get off, so I'm not concerned about it failing.





I applied glue to the outer surface for now. About now I realised I should have used foam backed vinyl. It is almost impossible to remove the air bubbles when contact adhesive is used (I'd let it dry for about 20minutes). The vinyl sure is nice and workable given its easily 40degrees outside ( still much cooler than the 50+ it would be in the shed).





I cut and snipped all the overlap in the same way the stuff I pealed off was done ( I really have no idea what I'm doing ).

After I'd snipped around all the overlapping bits, I painted some more glue onto these bits and left them for 20minutes.





After pulling the overlapping bits over and gluing them down from behind.





The vents are quite sun damaged. I probably should paint those vents with some plastic paint... I'm guessing I won't bother though.

This would probably cost me about $25 if I was going to make do them again. About $10 for a small tin of glue, and $15 for 1/2 meter of vinyl.

seeya,
Shane L.