And now you are a true RRC owner. Touch one thing to fix it and something seemingly unrelated doesn't work by the time your done. 😁
Gday All,
So I removed the hood lining and the shell , so basically just an exposed roof and wiring , now the immobiliser wont dis-engage. I can only assume there is a wire that I have disturbed or dislodged whilst removing the shell.
No the rear top tailgate wont lock home , it closes but it seems the latched don't strike home on the round bar lugs.
oh well something else to play around with.
Cheers Ean
And now you are a true RRC owner. Touch one thing to fix it and something seemingly unrelated doesn't work by the time your done. 😁
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
If you have fitted a new rubber , you will have to adjust the lock plates out a bit. They can be moved around quite a lot.No the rear top tailgate wont lock home , it closes but it seems the latched don't strike home on the round bar lugs.
Remember to make sure that the locks disengage only after the lock has been almost fully pressed. You adjust that with the threads on the rods from the centre.
Regards Philip A
Has it blown a fuse (interior lights shorting maybe) ? These days the first thing I do is listen for the fuel pump cycling when you turn the key. If it doesn't, head straight for the fuel pump fuse (under the drivers seat, accessed from the back).
seeya,
Shane L.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
Does the fuel pump cycle when you turn the ignition on ? Slide the drivers seat all the way forward and pull back the carpet from the back seat. You should see a couple of individual fuses in holders. I also have fuse under the passenger front seat. You need to pop the black housing top off to find them. (mine is a '91/'92 build)
seeya,
shane l.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
I think my problem is the immobiliser, the car cranks but won't fire. The keys don't seem to disarm the immobiliser like they first did. Called the mob in Perth who make them and you would have thought I was asking the guy to cut his arm off .
Anyway will I'll play with it over the weekend, might look at removing the immobiliser.
cheers Ean
I didnt have a multi meter with me but a test light indicates power at the coil. , If i pull the HT plug off the distributor that goes to the coil and then crank it to check for spark against the shock tower there is no spark , but the car cranks.
I put power to the fuel pump from a seperate battery and the pump run and fuel come out the return side of the fuel rail. I also tried cranking the car with the fuel pump running from a seperate battery and still no fire.
I need to try and work out if the immobiliser is connected to the ignition side and is faulty , and stopping spark , or if i have a totally seperate problem.
I do know that putting the key into the ignition now gets the door locks up and down , but its intermittent and this is what makes me think the immobiliser is playing up.
Thoughts.
Cheers Ean
Last edited by Ean Austral; 16th August 2018 at 03:44 PM.
Ok grabbed the multi meter and got the following,
Battery 12.7V
Earth to all 3 wires on the coil 12.4V
Amplifier ( whatever the thing is on the side of the distributor) to earth 0.0V
Cheers Ean
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