The red silicon will be Loctite RTV high temp, used to use it on the exhaust of a Lotus motor I ran years back.
Hi Guys,
is there a way to getting these motors "chuff" free? I dont' think I've ever owned a rover v8 that hasn't chuffed a little around the flange or manifold gaskets.
Interestingly there was a siliicon there that has survived the temperature on being applied to the manifold gaskets. That is probably a brilliant idea...... I wonder where I can get that from.
I'll run a straight edge of the manifold and chase all of the threads.... I figured now would be the best time to ask for advice on making it leak free (rather than 3months time if the damn thing leaks again).
These are the gaskets I have. Do poeple suggest putting them on dry ? (this is probably my preference). However if I can chase up that silicon that hasn't burnt away ... that would be brilliant. I can see why it failed when used here. Whoever applied it tightened the manifold down and squeezed it out. Im guessing the way to use it is to assemble finger tight .... given the silicon a day to cure, then torque the manifolds down. That is probably the best bet for the flange gaskets too. Also half the bolts were very loose ( I like loose any day to frozen and sheered off !!!).
I probably should fit a new exhaust from the Y pipes back .... But I'm guessing I'll cobble the crap I have here back together (unless poeple have cheap suggestions on a nice straight through pipe and rear resonator with mounts that fits).
seeya,
Shane L.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
The red silicon will be Loctite RTV high temp, used to use it on the exhaust of a Lotus motor I ran years back.
Ditto!
My one and only 'quiet' RV8 was my last one .. an '83 VandenPlas.
My mechanic gave me a tube of that Loctite high temp red/orange coloured stuff, and it held for at least 6-12 months .. longer than just about anything else I ever tried on any of my V8's(about 10 of them, at least).
It's the only silicon goo I use now, ever since then.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
run the "muffler" up the front and straight pipe out the rear, otherwise the drone will make you do it a second time....![]()
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
Thanks Guys,
I'll chase up a tube of loctite high temp silicon. I better grab another loctite anti-seize stick for the bolts too (I have a big tub of copper type anti-seize here, but I'm pretty sure you shouldn't use that on alloy).
I've run a resonator on the rear for years ..... and it sounds great. I've always found running no resonators on cars made them drone on the highway. There is only one way to find out I guess
seeya,
Shane L.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
Same here, on my V8s.
I started with P6s, and then after a couple, I got my 79 RRC.
So even with the experience of the P6 V8s, idiot me still got a exhaust system tweak, with rear resonator removed.
On my first drive out to Lake Eyre, I was kicking myself madly all the way.
And you'd think that I'd have learned the lesson after all these years, but of course on my D1, my mechanic reckoned my mufflers may be blocked, turbo a bit weak.
So I duly booked into exhaust place, he asked me what I wanted, I said new centre, no rear! Doh! on the drive home, I again realised my stupidity .. a couple days later I rocked up and asked him to fit a resonator on the rear.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
On my d1 the muffler and resi where shagged so i had a straight pipe for a few month's. Sounded awsome but the volume was OTT way too loud, you could see windows moving it was that loud. The rover 8 being having the flathead firing order just sounds awesome, you can hear everything the engine is doing. But all the consequences to follow and the loudness isnt worth it.
So i had a redback high flow muffler installed in the centre, sounded almost as good but was still too much on long drives for the wife and baby.
So before going away I had a hotdog installed at the rear just after the diff (before the original resonator) and then just a straight section of tailpipe. Sound wise im pretty happy its got a good low end grunt and that high end rover scream that makes your pants wet. Plenty enough volume when you want it, nice burble at idle and that throaty sound when you open the throtlle. BUT best of all cruising along the free way all the noise and drone is gone! You can still hear the engine but its a nice purr now at 2000-2500rpm the tyres are probably louder now. And after driving 1300ks straight through twice I wouldn't have it any other way.
Boy racer stuff aside, performance wise the combo i have now is best out of the 3. Fuel economy is "better" and probably gave back a couple of ponies.
OFFROAD however the stock exhaust was best. Withought the back pressure from the exhaust going downhill in an auto is dangerous, you may as well roll down in N. The revs dont pick up and the engine basically idles as you roll faster. Since adding the mufflers the revs pick up much better and you get most compression braking back but still not the same as the stock exhaust. Accelerating and transbrake downhill is the key but its weird to get used too, it goes against every instinct but it works really well.
I now have plenty of manifold leaks to chase up now that i can hear them 🤣
Cheers Jim
Another possible use for Combustion Heater Door Gasket/Rope adhesive.
Rated up to 1200* C
1. Use only late model steel shim gaskets, don't need to coat them with anything if the surfaces are flat and clean. Composite gaskets when blown out are loads noisy, sounds like destroyed big ends.
2. Find and install a set of D2 manifold bolts and torque tube spacers, they are unlikely to come undone IMHO. D1/RRC bolts suck.
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