Thread: Replacement Alternator

I'm surprised this has no comments. I'd search for a Bosch universal to fit. Generally fitted to older V8 commodores. I fab up some mounts to mount these if required.

seeya,
Shane L.

Yes You can make a Bosch fit with new bracketry, but why not fix the one you have?
They are not hard to pull apart and most of the bits are available from evilbay.
I have 3 of them(magnetti mareeli) and a lookalike that I have just replaced the armature on as the bloody shims that go around the bearing to make it tight on one end slipped down and actually cut the wires on the armature.
Never seen anything like it before, however all working again.
The diodes plates and exciter plates are all online.
Brad

Originally Posted by Bradtot

Yes You can make a Bosch fit with new bracketry, but why not fix the one you have?
They are not hard to pull apart and most of the bits are available from evilbay.
I have 3 of them(magnetti mareeli) and a lookalike that I have just replaced the armature on as the bloody shims that go around the bearing to make it tight on one end slipped down and actually cut the wires on the armature.
Never seen anything like it before, however all working again.
The diodes plates and exciter plates are all online.
Brad

i stripped it down yesterday , front bearing was knackered so replaced that . Rear was dry but still ok but it's a needle roller do can grease that up , the 2 brushes on the regulator are gone .
Looking at it you buy the reg and brushes together so it's a UK parts job as never seen any from Aust supplier so at least a week to Darwin.

Thought i I could buy one from a common vehicle and then overhaul the other

Chrers Ean

Nick down to your local auto elec if you have one and grab the brushes. They are replaceable. They are soldered in by the tail wire. No need to replace the regulator.

Ean I would call Ashdown/Ingrams on 89844222 in Hickman street. Give them the model number which should be on a sticker on it somewhere and they should be able to match it.

Oh man,
whatever you do, do not toss the marelli unit if it is not completely cactus. Rebuild it.

The alternative brand-new alternators are all vented housings with internal fans, made from plasticine and won't last 20 minutes. I know this from experience. I killed two within a short space (field windings dead shorted - not my doing) now I currently have a genuine Denso unit fitted and when the visco fan exploded a few weeks ago, it killed the bearings and the front pulley, and bent the shaft. I just don't want the hassle of these awkward size mount units anymore... So, what to do? get a high output truck / bus unit.
I have a Leece-Neville self-exciting 160A unit (about 3x size) ready and waiting to fit, but will need to fabricate new lower mount bracket first. Just need some time.
There are D+ and warning lamp versions available, but I'd rather have a self-exciting unit.

If you're not wanting to fabricate -

Your best bet is rebuild what you have. it's rated 100A, so it's not a slouch - when it's working!
The rectifier, regulator, split ring and brushes are all that need replacing on a 'dead' unit, Bearings are a routine serviceable item - you should check the alternator for bearing noise at every belt change (i.e. with belt removed).

Split ring is usually pretty gouged, so grab a few for spares, and brushes / bearings. Then you can DIY rebuild anywhere if urgent - just make sure the split ring is concentric on the shaft - you will need to turn it between centres to make sure it's not out of round. Easier on a lathe, but a battery drill on the bare end and a vise on the front bearing shell will allow you or a helper to file/sand the copper to roundness and get you out of a dire situation. Not ideal, but it will get you to the next populated area.

EDIT: Ashdowns won't have a cross-reference number for the old marelli unit unless they still have their really old printed cross-reference inventory index at hand. Their replacement unit is the internal fan vented case 100A version LXA 835 or You could also opt for the 120A LXA 832 - and you're going to have to replace the serpentine pulley that it comes with, for your vee belt one. Not only that, you may likely run into pulley offset issues, because of the differences between old non-vented case and the newer serpentine belt / disco versions.
Those are the off the shelf generic replacements, both PRC made.

Originally Posted by Mercguy

Oh man,
whatever you do, do not toss the marelli unit if it is not completely cactus. Rebuild it.

The alternative brand-new alternators are all vented housings with internal fans, made from plasticine and won't last 20 minutes. I know this from experience. I killed two within a short space (field windings dead shorted - not my doing) now I currently have a genuine Denso unit fitted and when the visco fan exploded a few weeks ago, it killed the bearings and the front pulley, and bent the shaft. I just don't want the hassle of these awkward size mount units anymore... So, what to do? get a high output truck / bus unit.
I have a Leece-Neville self-exciting 160A unit (about 3x size) ready and waiting to fit, but will need to fabricate new lower mount bracket first. Just need some time.
There are D+ and warning lamp versions available, but I'd rather have a self-exciting unit.

If you're not wanting to fabricate -

Your best bet is rebuild what you have. it's rated 100A, so it's not a slouch - when it's working!
The rectifier, regulator, split ring and brushes are all that need replacing on a 'dead' unit, Bearings are a routine serviceable item - you should check the alternator for bearing noise at every belt change (i.e. with belt removed).

Split ring is usually pretty gouged, so grab a few for spares, and brushes / bearings. Then you can DIY rebuild anywhere if urgent - just make sure the split ring is concentric on the shaft - you will need to turn it between centres to make sure it's not out of round. Easier on a lathe, but a battery drill on the bare end and a vise on the front bearing shell will allow you or a helper to file/sand the copper to roundness and get you out of a dire situation. Not ideal, but it will get you to the next populated area.

EDIT: Ashdowns won't have a cross-reference number for the old marelli unit unless they still have their really old printed cross-reference inventory index at hand. Their replacement unit is the internal fan vented case 100A version LXA 835 or You could also opt for the 120A LXA 832 - and you're going to have to replace the serpentine pulley that it comes with, for your vee belt one. Not only that, you may likely run into pulley offset issues, because of the differences between old non-vented case and the newer serpentine belt / disco versions.
Those are the off the shelf generic replacements, both PRC made.

thanks for the reply, mine is 65amp and runs a seperate V belt it's not the serpentine model. I will look at finding some replacement brushes and go from there.

Cheers Ean

LXA835 is the veebelt version, LXA832 is serpentine pulley. regardless, you can literally pull the pulley off and swap, if the marelli has a 17mm shaft.

I just don't like internal fan units with vented cases in 4x4's - all they do is allow water and mud and **** in. Hence why I now have this behemoth Leece Neville unit.

at 65A, you are in a precarious position however. using the electric windows alone can draw as much as 40 amps wile the vehicle is running.

My suggestion is to rebuild the marelli, and bide your time, look around for a properly serious large case N1 Bosch (germany) alternator with the old style case and do the conversion. Those buggers have up to 18 diodes and will pump 150A all day long, even though they are rated at 90A. You are constrained for space where the RRC mounts it's alternator, because of the air filter and upper radiator hose.

The other killer in the RRC is the fact that the location is too close to the heat from the exhaust, and the resistance from the air pulled through the viscofan.
Despite the pathetic little sheetmetal heat shield, the alternator will simply pull hot air in from the back and struggle for cooling, because the viscofan is punching it more or less straight onto the front.

The idea is to provide a source of cool air to the rear of the alternator, so it can be drawn though the rectifier and cool it down, thereby allowing it to operate more efficiently and deliver it's rated output.

If you've ever touched the alternator after driving for a couple of hours, you'll understand what I mean.

Heat is the enemy, and it's yet another example of poor engineering from land rover.