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Thread: LT95 oil

  1. #21
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    LT95 oil

    I agree ZDDP is a bad thing. You want higher friction, not lower. That is the selling point of MTFs. They include additive to increase friction.

    That said, in my testing back to back between engine oil and MTFs with various gearboxes has not shown any difference in synchro feel. Viscosity seems the biggest factor. The thicker it is the longer it takes for the synchro to do its job.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
    I agree ZDDP is a bad thing. You want higher friction, not lower. That is the selling point of MTFs. They include additive to increase friction.

    That said, in my testing back to back between engine oil and MTFs with various gearboxes has not shown any difference in synchro feel. Viscosity seems the biggest factor. The thicker it is the longer it takes for the synchro to do its job.
    Engine oil tends to shear a lot faster in use, too, compared to a dedicated MTF.

    Boxes like the R380 can be idiosyncratic, the sweetest shifting fluid I used (except at below 0° start temps) was Motul Gear 300 (75w-90) but some seem to shift better with an ATF.
    A good syn ATF was hands down the best at a low ambient but as soon as the 'box started to warm up shift quality went away quickly, becoming baulky on the up change.

    Forgot to mention that the 'normal' sulphur/phos EP additives used at GL5 diff oil levels tend to interfere with synchro performance too, so I'd guess ZDDP would act in a similar manner.
    That GL5 transaxle/manual trans fluids work as well as they do is pretty impressive.

  3. #23
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    I want to rant but it's not worth it.

    Luddites cannot be convinced that modern fluids are inherently better, longer lasting and better performing over a wider range of operational parameters than something defined in a 1958 landfover service manual.

    Oil threads should be banned from fora.

    I need an aspirin to ward off the evil spirits.
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...
    MY92 RRC 3.9 Ardennes Green
    MY93 RRC LSE 300tdi/R380/LT230 British Racing Green
    MY99 D2 V8 Kinversand

  4. #24
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    BTW do not use straight 90 in the LT95.
    Particularly if the temps go below 0C in winter.
    My LT95 in Saudi also had a broken oil pump shaft.

    Regards PhilipA

  5. #25
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    I've put in some 15w-40 synthetic. Done about 20kms and shift does seem better. Also discussed fluids (not oils) with Castrol Tech department. Their feedback was:
    15w-40 in good oil is ok
    They do not recommend 75-90 Syntrax MTF as its a GL5 rating and not as well suited to bronze etc as GL4.
    They were on the fence re Syntrans 75-85 as the viscosity was closest to 30w engine oil.
    The oil they thought was most suited IF using a MTF was Syntrans 75-90 Heavy Duty which is only available in 20ltr drums. This is used in truck manual gearboxes. Suggestion was that if going this route go to a truck workshop and buy some oil from them rather than buying a 20ltr drum.
    So - will leave 15w-40 in and see how it goes for time being. Thanks all!

  6. #26
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    Nulon G70 gearbox treatment works miracle in cold and noisy gearboxes ....

    Smooth Shift Manual Gearbox and Diff Treatment (G70) - Nulon Products Australia


    I've used it for years in my old cars. Particularly the ones with tired 2nd gear synchros.... it quietens them right down too.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meccles View Post
    I've put in some 15w-40 synthetic. Done about 20kms and shift does seem better. Also discussed fluids (not oils) with Castrol Tech department. Their feedback was:
    15w-40 in good oil is ok
    They do not recommend 75-90 Syntrax MTF as its a GL5 rating and not as well suited to bronze etc as GL4.
    They were on the fence re Syntrans 75-85 as the viscosity was closest to 30w engine oil.
    The oil they thought was most suited IF using a MTF was Syntrans 75-90 Heavy Duty which is only available in 20ltr drums. This is used in truck manual gearboxes. Suggestion was that if going this route go to a truck workshop and buy some oil from them rather than buying a 20ltr drum.
    So - will leave 15w-40 in and see how it goes for time being. Thanks all!
    They should know better about their own products, the sulphur/phosphorous additive pack is buffered in Syntrax 75W-90 so it isn't reactive to bronze.
    The vehicles its designed for (cars with transaxles, e.g. Pirsche 944, Alfetta's, Subaru, etc) use bronze synchros

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Nulon G70 gearbox treatment works miracle in cold and noisy gearboxes ....

    Smooth Shift Manual Gearbox and Diff Treatment (G70) - Nulon Products Australia


    I've used it for years in my old cars. Particularly the ones with tired 2nd gear synchros.... it quietens them right down too.
    We have used it in whining diffs as well,seems to sort them out.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    They should know better about their own products, the sulphur/phosphorous additive pack is buffered in Syntrax 75W-90 so it isn't reactive to bronze.
    The vehicles its designed for (cars with transaxles, e.g. Pirsche 944, Alfetta's, Subaru, etc) use bronze synchros
    The problem with modern gear oils is not copper corrosion. The problem is the EP additives stick to the white metal on the synchros and then pulls the white metal off when sheared. It is a well known issue and the reason why you can't use gear oils that contain EP additives in a synchronized gearbox.

  10. #30
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    I used to use G70 in my BW transfer case in my 91RRC.

    I went to check (and replace ) the rear output splines and found heaps of G70 stuck to the inside of the extension with no evidence of it on the splines at all. The splines were worn out at AFAIR 230KK which is a pretty typical number of Ks to fail.

    It looks like the centrifugal force of a spinning shaft just flung it all off!

    I have not used it since.

    It stands to reason that a solid will be flung off moving parts unless they are really slow moving.
    Regards PhilipA

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