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i agree, worst thing you could do would be to try and drive in remote area's in a vehicle using parts that are not common.Quote:
Originally Posted by 101RRS
A TDI conversion would be the easiest, its a bolt in job and was available from LR as a retro fit kit, isuzu would be the next best swap as it uses mostly standard available LR parts.
Something that is being built as crate engine is ideal, I'll have a look into the Barra engines, they do sound like a much better option,Quote:
Originally Posted by aussearcher
As for the diesel, a dmax engine probably would be smart I had a diesel in the past though and I absolutely hated it, probably because it was on its last legs though and was costing me a fortune!
Thanks for the advice regarding the groups, I'll jump into those and have a look at what people are up too, I understand this is going to cost me a hell of a lot, however I'm hoping it is going to be worth it in the long run!
I would have thought a barra in a rangie would be to long.
If you're traveling around oz in it, i'd be looking to keep it simple, 4bd1t and lt95 combo would work well.
Why not a 3.2 ford diesel.
If it can be put in a Defender it could similarly go into a RRC.
regards PhilipA
3.2 is the same engine family as the 2.2/2.4 so is a bolt in deal, not so in an RRC.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
But it could be done using the MT82/LT230 combo from a defender.
I might have to look into that, I’ve seen a fair few people doing this,Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern
Do you know if there are any kits out there?
I guess my point was more about the lack of electronics. Whatever the blokes have done engine control wise In a Defender could just as easily be done with a RRC.Quote:
3.2 is the same engine family as the 2.2/2.4 so is a bolt in deal, not so in an RRC.
But it could be done using the MT82/LT230 combo from a defender
regards PhilipA
Not really kit wise, but you can buy weld in engine mounts from Rijidij Off Road, the rest is pretty much factory/bolt in.Quote:
Originally Posted by romeorover
There are a couple schools of thought expressed which can be easily summed into "Keep it Land Rover based" and "Keep it common"
The real issue is that there needs to be a serious defined set of parameters within which you fit your "choice"
1. outback or not, beach or not, mud-bogging or not, deep river crossings or not.
2. outback touring and/or towing or "real" off road work, camping 4x4 or day tripper.
3. city use (capital cities - aka dense areas of population vehicular traffic and urban roads.
4. coastal area or suitably distanced from salt-laden air / corrosive environment. - e.g. used to tow a boat and left at boat ramp. etc
In most of these applications, a suitably well rebuilt engine will be more than adequate and suitable for even the serious offroading, -if- the rebuild work is done properly and no corners are cut (e.g. reusing old water pumps or cooling hoses etc. i.e. a proper mechanical overhaul commensurate with the requirement to perform flawlessly in remote environments *if* that is the main use requirement.
Conversion work is really not much different, except you need to determine a few obvious things.
1. will it fit
2. does it provide better power and economy and above all, driveability
3. will it require a gearbox/transmission swap and adapters for an LT230 or will you use the existing gearbox.
4. if using existing gearbox, is it suitably stronge enough to handle peak power and torque outputs with a decent overhead margin for reliability?
5. what is the engine cost, and is it a complete engine running with warranty or not
6. if you need to purchase conversion kit parts in order to complete the transplant, are those components suitably strong enough and can they take abuse in harsh environments.
7. have you considered the electrical system changes and budgeted for this on top of the actual engine swap costs and fabrication?
8. does your conversion require a standalone ECU(aftermarket) or will a factory unit be able to function as a standalone system in another vehicle?
9. do you require a transmission control unit and wheel speed sensors for TCU inputs (if conversion is engine and trans)
10. have you done your figures?
11. do you already have a donor engine or is the reason for a particular engine choice because you can get it for nothing or very little outlay?
12. Diesel or petrol?
13. diff ratio changes required to meet the new power/torque curves?
14. possible propshaft length alterations due to relocation of transfer case etc?
Those are but a few.
Fundamentally however I disagree that it is a straightforward task. beyond choosing an engine there are other things to consider... like vehicle costs - insurance and other additional costs - engineers report, brake test, lane change test, engine output dyno figures for engineer to sign off on VSB14 requirements etc.
And lastly, time.
Do you have the time to do this?
The way I am looking at it, it would be cheaper to buy another vehicle.
If I had "no other choice" then I would avoid a common rail injected engine for starters. Fuel quality in the outback is not guaranteed.
An old mech IDI engine will easily handle **** fuel.
Petrol engine suitable for everything except the hardcore deep river crossings really. Even then a modern petrol engine would easily handle deep water if the appropriate precautions are taken.
I'd avoid a turbocharger if at all possible. Intercoolers and piping have a tendency to fail on rough gibber roads outback, and dont do too well after ingesting a grille full of mud and slop either, leading to overheating or hydraulic lock depending on the circumstances.
A properly sorted 300tdi or TD5 would be the cheapest (not the most reliable, but cheapest to fit)
Manufacturer optional engines for the model range are always the preferred option where possible. - avoiding costly and time consuming engineering processing.
Your options are only limited by your bank balance and skills.
There is no verifiable proof that a rebuild of the existing engine is the best choice for your application. Nor is there any proof that an engine converted vehicle is superior in any way to the existing original drivetrain.
This is a subject that deserves a lot of careful consideration and a lot of math.
You have options. It's best if you explore all of them before making any decision as to which is the most suitable for you.
Alloytech probably has a higher risk of breaking than a Rover V8. For the cost of doing a conversion just for one trip you might find it better to just rebuild the Rover V8.