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Thread: Programmable Ignition Timing

  1. #81
    Join Date
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    I have got to the point where I cannot tune the BLOS or the CB Black Box any further.

    I need to find someone with a dyno who can setup the LPG mixtures and timing. I am near Melbourne Airport so would ideally like somewhere close, but for the right shop I would travel if required.

    Does anyone know someone who can tune my setup with the BLOS and programmable ignition? I have become quite proficient at changing the MAPS for the ignition, just need a dyno to see what figures work best.

  2. #82
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    Apr 2023
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    Reno, NV, USA
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    Initial Distributor Setup

    Richard, when you setup your locked distributor, what static timing point did you set the distributor to? The Black Box instructions say 0 degrees in contrast to the 70 degrees indicated for the VW application. I'm pondering the necessary distributor phasing questions.

  3. #83
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    After you lock the distributor re-install it at 0 degrees.

    Then any timing figures you put into the Timing MAP are the actual figure before TDC, since it's referenced back to the 0 degree initial.

  4. #84
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    FrankGRUN, do you have the Black Box ignition ready to put in?

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Kaye View Post
    FrankGRUN, do you have the Black Box ignition ready to put in?
    Richard, Just about to do install but a totally different system to yours. Ford 460, TFi distributor to Black Box to Crane Hi-6s to Crane Fireball coil to FiTech throttle body EFi. Trying to map 42 degrees of maximum advance into the angular space of the TFi distributor rotor.

  6. #86
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    That sounds quite complicated. Hope you can work it all out.

  7. #87
    Tim308 Guest

    Holden 308 engine

    Hi, reallly like all the information posted here. Thanks Richard for your maps you posted and the wiring of the Bosch module. l am new to programming ignition timing but have a CB Black that will install soon still trying to workout how to set the distributor static timing it currently set to 16 deg do l still set static timing or do l need to set it to zero and let the cb black box advance the timing in the map l set up?

  8. #88
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    You need to set static timing to 0 degrees, and lock the mechanical advance, and remove the vacuum advance.

    All advance of the timing is controlled by the Black Box. The MAP numbers are the actual timing figures for any particular rpm and load.

    If you type in tool (or tools, can't remember) into the first page that opens in the Black Box software you can force the whole map to one timing figure. There is no box to type it into, just type it while that page is open. Then with the timing forced to one figure you can use a timing light to check the advance. Change this figure again to check 10, 20, 30 degrees etc. with the timing light.

    Sorry been away for a while, just got back.

  9. #89
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    Has anyone else installed one of these ignitions yet?

    I have put a few recent posts regarding a 4.6 litre I have been building for my Range Rover, mainly regarding camshafts and valve springs. I put a 204/214 @ 0.050” duration with 0.450”/0.474” valve lift.

    I now have the engine in the car and up and running. Need to try and work out a MAP for the 4.6 which is on LPG. The MAP I had for the 3.9 litre feels good up to around 3000rpm but over that it feels really flat and not producing the power I would expect.

  10. #90
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    Have had the Black Box disconnected for about 18 months. Today I set it back up again.

    The wiring is a bit of a pain to get right, I am using the BIM024 module. The black box basically takes the input from the distributor which is based at zero degrees. This signal is then sent to the Black Box. The box does its thing and sends a signal back out to the coil -ve.

    Since I last used it I have changed from flapper fuel injection to a 4 barrel manifold with a Holden 5 litre Rochester carb. It’s also on dual fuel with an Impco 300a mixer. Also put in another new cam 218 degrees @ 0.050’ and 110 LSA. The motor is a 4.6 with 10:1 compression.

    I will play around with the MAP’s for a few weeks and see what I end up with.

    I was running the normal distributor yesterday and on petrol it knocked at 18 degrees initial, backed it off to 14 degrees and it was ok. On LPG I had the initial up to 20 degrees and it still was not knocking, didn’t take it any further.

    Anyone else tried one of these ignitions yet?

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