Thread: Phil's 82 Range Rover Classic

Recently after I removed the rear drive shaft I noticed a slow leak of oil on the floor below the brake drum.
It wasn’t there before I removed the drive shaft and why removing it would suddenly cause a leak.
The other day I removed the auto transmission and transfer case as I’m going to replace them with a manual LT77, but I’m going to use the transfer case off the auto as it’s high ratio is 1:1.003 in place of the current 1:1.192.
This will increase the gearing by ~15.8%.
AF4BD5F6-18F8-4733-9E95-67DF896452A4.jpg
When I got the transmission out I stood it up on the bell housing for cleaning.
I removed the brake drum and the inside bottom was wet with oil.
Also the face of the drive flange was also wet.
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I got my rattle gun out to remove the retaining nut as they are supposed to be pretty tight, but to my surprise it just spun off.
Now, when I removed the drive flange, the seal underneath was completely dry with no trace of oil dribbling across it.
E5D8ED01-E199-48BB-9EB1-346904718DE1.jpg
My assumption is that as the drive flange nut was not completely tight, it was the tail shaft bolts clamping the drive flange to the tail shaft and sandwiching the brake drum in between that provided the seal against the oil leaking out.
So when I started loosening the tail shaft bolts the oil that was able to flow along the drive flange splines, then soaked through the felt washer and as the drive flange nut was not tight, the oil could leak past the drive flange nut washer and dribble down inside the brake drum and then drip onto the floor.

I have a new felt washer and seal to install (but will need a new nyloc nut) after I clean everything for reassembly.

Does my logic (or lack there of) sound reasonable.

Phil

Hi Phil,

Had similar on an LT95 years ago.

Seal on mine was leaking, brake pads were soaked, the oil catch tin bit to direct oil away from the pads was missing.

New seal, fabbed up the catcher, de-oiled the pads and put it all back together.

Was okay for awhile, then there was a slight leak from somewhere......... can't remember.

The felt washer was the issue and I think I used silicon on the splines instead.

Pretty sure blknight has posted about this many moons ago.

Same pads are in the drum now and are fine.

DL

After removing the auto transmission, there is an adaptor bolted to the crankshaft with Socket head cap screws.
CA713F39-6DFC-4012-9E36-12E75A15BB14.jpg
I bought an impact driver (5/16” hex to 1/2”) for my Ryobi 18V impact gun.
According to the specifications it has 900 Nm of torque to undo fasteners.
Well, they still won’t budge
I have sprayed both the front and back face with WD40 in the hope that it may penetrate and allow them to come loose.

Any suggestions

Phil

Originally Posted by Phil 850

After removing the auto transmission, there is an adaptor bolted to the crankshaft with Socket head cap screws.
CA713F39-6DFC-4012-9E36-12E75A15BB14.jpg
I bought an impact driver (5/16” hex to 1/2”) for my Ryobi 18V impact gun.
According to the specifications it has 900 Nm of torque to undo fasteners.
Well, they still won’t budge
I have sprayed both the front and back face with WD40 in the hope that it may penetrate and allow them to come loose.

Any suggestions

Phil

ATF in acetone is the best penetrant.............It has to be shaken up before every application.

The evaporation of the acetone cools any air in the thread area and draws the ATF in.

Helps to warm the area slightly beforehand using nothing stronger than a hot air gun, Acetone is extremely flammable.

It is a slow process so don't get impatient. Needs multiple applications in tough cases.

The threads on the cap bolts might have been loctited, in which case do a search on the best way to deal with that, but do not use the acetone mix until the flange is back to a room type temp.

Is the impact driver 1/2 " drive or 5/16 hex?

I have an AEG driver.......5/16 hex...... and it will snap high quality 1/2 " bits before any really big torque is used. I use the old fashioned impact driver (with a hammer) for stuff like screws.

Good luck, DL

It’s a 1/2” drive to 5/16” hex. one of these.
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I‘ll try the ATF acetone mix and give it plenty of time to penetrate.

Phil

Originally Posted by Phil 850

...................
I‘ll try the ATF acetone mix and give it plenty of time to penetrate.

Phil

It's a repetitive process................every time it's applied the evaporation of the acetone draws the ATF in to where you want it.

Well, three of the cap screws have been removed.
The other three are playing hard ball
I noticed when removing the impact driver bit from one of the cap screws that the hex end of it was fracturing and small pieces were coming away.
I took it back to Total Tools today and they replaced it with a new one. Hopefully it will last longer as I bought the previous one just for this job on the 9th of November.

I have placed tape over the bottom half of each screw and vacant screw hole so that I could squirt some ATF/Acetone mix into each and the little dam at the front would hold it while it penetrates the threads and in between the crankshaft and adaptor.
ECD00CF7-D63B-4735-817C-D057CDB9030C.jpg You can see the little pool of ATF/Acetone behind the tape.
I’ll give it a couple of days and then hit it with the impact gun again.

It's tedious, but its progress.

Phil

Have a close look at the 3 you have removed, any sign of 'Red' locktite?
This was made for bolts that were not meant to be removed, The recommended removal way is to break the bond using heat.
high heat breaks down the red stuff. a couple of minutes with an oxy torch on the bolts should do it. Let cool then remove.

Look up method on website, " Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed to lock and seal threaded fasteners "permanently" and prevent loosening from vibration. Ideal for fasteners up to 1” ...

If no sign of the red stuff, then disregard.