Thread: Phil's 82 Range Rover Classic

Originally Posted by Phil 850

Finally refitted the A/C unit now that the heater assembly, dash instruments and vents have been installed.


Presumably the speaker covers are NLA and I don’t know where to start to repair this one, so I was considering making a GPS holder to fit in its place.

Phil

Newer models just had a coin tray, which I believe retro-fit, if that's an easier solution for you.

Love the idea of the a/c coming out of the dash vents!

Originally Posted by StuRR80

Newer models just had a coin tray, which I believe retro-fit, if that's an easier solution for you.

Love the idea of the a/c coming out of the dash vents!

The seperate A/C system is way more effective. I don't mind that it has its own vents whne it actually works

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

The seperate A/C system is way more effective. I don't mind that it has its own vents whne it actually works

Mine is the separate A/C system.
Cooled air flows out of the four louvre vents in the front of the system, but there are also two holes in the top of this duct directly in line with the eyeball vents, but there were never any hoses between the holes in the A/C unit and the eyeball vents.
I’ve now fitted these hoses and the A/C unit can blow air out of both the four louvres and the eyeball vents
However, the only way to achieve efficient demisting of the windscreen is to run the heater blower with the fresh air vent closed and the A/C running.
The heater will draw the dehumidified air from within the vehicle and then can blow it up through the dash top vents onto the windscreen.

Phil

My classic does not have a battery retaining bracket.
1EE3E957-782D-43AB-A13A-516BEAAEF1FA.jpeg
There is one available on Gumtree for $250 and they are NLA from the usual suppliers.
Can someone provide the overall length and width of the angle frame please.
Also the flange length of the angle the frame is made from.
I can then fabricate one myself.

Regards
Phil

I bought these headers that are made specifically for fitting a P76 V8 into a RRC.
I installed them the other day onto the original 3.5 to check that they would also fit it and they do but needed spacers between the heads and the headers because a P76 V8 is a bit wider (and taller) across the exhaust outlets on the heads.
Now that I have checked that they fit I took them to a ceramic coater.
Before
A328893A-54EA-44CF-B6D6-3B5B0DE93EB2.jpg BEDA55E7-BDDD-4A43-8D35-0C14A206A921.jpg

After
BDD18B73-D268-4057-9C3F-0F8C3D71E391.jpg A0333086-7F2E-49C1-BB76-3819F1314798.jpg

Unfortunately, there going to make the rest of the engine bay look a bit ordinary.

Phil

I have been thinking about getting my headers ceramic coated for a while. Were the headers you got new, or did they have to be cleaned before coating.

Where did you get it done and what did it cost? I am looking for somewhere close to me near Melbourne Airport to do it.

Originally Posted by Richard Kaye

I have been thinking about getting my headers ceramic coated for a while. Were the headers you got new, or did they have to be cleaned before coating.

Where did you get it done and what did it cost? I am looking for somewhere close to me near Melbourne Airport to do it.

Richard
The headers were new.
I took them to Comp Coat Race Coatings.
10 Ferndell St. South Granville in Sydney.
Email: johncompcoat@gmail.com

They were $500.

At least that will give you a price guide for a local Ceramic coater.
I cleaned all of the weld spatter off first (or so I thought) so make sure you do at least that.
You could also clean up (grind) the welds if you want them to look extra special.

Phil

I lifted the engine up a bit so I could remove the engine mounts and the engine brackets.
A clean and some satin black and new mounts and it looks much better.
5A4C4B7E-8A2E-49BC-A70E-BE51BB3E8B3E.jpg B758574D-E49E-48CD-B442-837ED9974851.jpg
The original mounts had collapsed to about two thirds of their original height and were perished and split.
My parts cabinet is slowly emptying out, so that must be a good sign

Phil