YES
I thought I'd asked this question before, but??
Does the RRC have the same problem as the D1 (or have I got it back to front?) with the potential for the headlight switch to catch fire and/or burn out?
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
YES
Absolutely YES.
To eliminate the possibility you need to install relays on the switched circuits, especially the lights - use one of Dave's Traxide headlight harnesses if you want a "bolt-in" solution for those.
The rest will be manual labour. Do you have the wiring schematic from RAVE for your LSE Gavin?
Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...
MY92 RRC 3.9 Ardennes Green
MY93 RRC LSE 300tdi/R380/LT230 British Racing Green
MY99 D2 V8 Kinversand
I don't have a specific LSE wiring schematic, just the softdash.
I remember that Tim doesn't have a dedicated relay package for the D2a I previously owned, but my local guru will know how to fit the goods (assuming not already fitted in Bessie!!) Cant check, cos the queen is 180 km away for the time being.
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
Yes.
Inadequate contacts design and/or financial constraints... or simple LUCAS incompetence.. Your choice.
I did use a handful of relays on the Lady Sarah, can't recall if I left them in when we divorced... Hope not, as it was a Heath-Robinsom lash-up.
But it kept the ampere-count in the Engine Room, not the Bridge.
Maybe try some H4 LED globes to bring the current down a bit? Think the softdash is the same setup as the D1 isn't it?
Clyde still has the original switch although he's the last of the hard dashes so its a pretty hefty switch to start with...
Just buy one of these.
12V H4 Halogen Headlight Brightness Booster Wire Harness Relay Kit | eBay
For $19 it's not worth stuffing around.
I have had the same one for about 20years now on my RRC and D2, and an occasional replacement of relays is no problem, and I run 130/100 bulbs. (which would melt the OE switch in about 1 minute)
Regards PhilipA
If you don't like China, although it really looks good, then there are plenty local on ebay.
Last edited by PhilipA; 29th January 2022 at 07:26 AM.
The switch on my 81 rrc melted one night 2hrs from home, managed to jam an icypole stick in it to make contact which got us home. We were nearly home when we hit a pothole and the stick fell out plunging us into darkness.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
FEven if you fit LEDs, it's a good idea to put in a harness, and its all plug and play.unny you should say that! I have a pair of LEDS I scored from a member here a few years ago, but have yet to try them out. Oh the list just keeps on growing!
Funny, I have 3harnesses sitting in my D2, one OEM, one relay, and one for HID, yet here I am back at 130/100H4 after trying LED and HID.
I do not like LED or HID on wet roads as to me it's like no headlights as the high Kelvin seems to reflect much more , and both on a D2 have dark patches so I am once again back on H4 and not so absolutely dazzled by road signs which is also a problem with high Kelvin..
Next when I feel flush (if ever) I might try 7inch round LED headlight units.
Regards PhilipA
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