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Thread: New stereo install sounds horrible

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2023
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mercguy View Post
    Absolutely no issue with running the headunit off the second battery, along with the amps. So long as you remember to power it off

    Insofar as bi-amping the fronts - no need. just one channel per 'corner' and one for sub channel if you're going all-out. Make sure you use a crossover on the front stage for all the speakers, make sure that each driver in the same channel can work within the crossovers clearly defined ranges, and if your headunit has time alignment and EQ, take advantage of that to it's fullest.

    These days there are plenty of separates with their own passive crossovers, and you can even modify them without too much effort (jaycar) and get a great result if you know where your speakers are their most efficient.

    If you have coaxials - they may very well come with a built in crossover - some do and some are ultra-basic with just a cap between terminals - but coaxials aren't helpful because they kill low end response with the integrated tweeter, and the tweeter is almost always in the way and delivers too much HF saturation in the position the speaker is mounted.

    follow the KISS principle - and don't spend more than is necessary. If this was say - a new RR or an RRS or something much newer with a fancypants interior etc - then there is argument to spend more $ on integrating the stereo, but for an RRC - really - your best music is coming from the chev under the bonnet. I wouldn't even be bothering with a stereo if that were mine....
    Do have to admit that the Chevy does sound fantastic, especially since I sorted out a couple of pesty Felines

    The head unit I got is a pretty basic mechless Sony, but it does have a bluetooth app that I can adjust the EQ. The Amps I've got are a JBL GTO-3EZ, (50Wx2 @4ohms + 350Wx1 @4ohms, or 75Wx2 +500Wx1 @ 2ohms) and a Kenwood KAC-7252 (170w x 2 @4ohm or 250w x 2 @2ohm or 500w bridged at 4ohm). The four 4" coaxial speakers are Kicker CSC44 4ohm 50w RMS. I believe the Sub is a 12" Fusion 300w RMS.

    From what you have said above I take it that I would be far better getting component 6.5" over coaxial? If I were to go component are you suggesting that I get an additional crossover for the 4" speakers? When wiring them up is going to stress the amp to run the speakers in parallel if the JBL's nominal impedance is 3ohms?

    Thank you so much for taking the time with my questions. I greatly appreciate it. I have been trying to do all the research over the web and I end up going around in circles.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2023
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mercguy View Post
    Absolutely no issue with running the headunit off the second battery, along with the amps. So long as you remember to power it off

    Insofar as bi-amping the fronts - no need. just one channel per 'corner' and one for sub channel if you're going all-out. Make sure you use a crossover on the front stage for all the speakers, make sure that each driver in the same channel can work within the crossovers clearly defined ranges, and if your headunit has time alignment and EQ, take advantage of that to it's fullest.

    These days there are plenty of separates with their own passive crossovers, and you can even modify them without too much effort (jaycar) and get a great result if you know where your speakers are their most efficient.

    If you have coaxials - they may very well come with a built in crossover - some do and some are ultra-basic with just a cap between terminals - but coaxials aren't helpful because they kill low end response with the integrated tweeter, and the tweeter is almost always in the way and delivers too much HF saturation in the position the speaker is mounted.

    follow the KISS principle - and don't spend more than is necessary. If this was say - a new RR or an RRS or something much newer with a fancypants interior etc - then there is argument to spend more $ on integrating the stereo, but for an RRC - really - your best music is coming from the chev under the bonnet. I wouldn't even be bothering with a stereo if that were mine....
    The Chevy does sound fantastic especially since I sorted out a couple of pesky felines.

    So from what you are saying I will go for the 6.5" components, ie JBL GTO609C ( GTO609C | Ultimate sound experience, Mid-bass, tweeter and cross-over bring music to life in your car ) over say the JBL 620( JBL Stadium GTO 620 )

    Should I be gettin another crossover for the Kicker 4" speakers I already have in the door? If the amp is 2ohm stable will it cause problems if I wire up the 6.5" (3ohm) and the 4"(4ohm) speakers in parallel as this would then have an impedance of less than 2ohm? The Amps that I have are a Kenwood KAC-7252, ( Amplifiers • KAC-7252 Specifications • KENWOOD Europe ) and a JBL GTO ( Just a moment... ) The Sub is a 12" 300W RMS

    Thanks again for all your advice. I've been going around in circles.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    FNQ
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    Hi Richard,

    got your PM and rplied to your questions in detail there.
    cheers
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...
    MY92 RRC 3.9 Ardennes Green
    MY93 RRC LSE 300tdi/R380/LT230 British Racing Green
    MY99 D2 V8 Kinversand

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