Thread: Panhard Rod

Originally Posted by aRRon

Today got new tyres fitted and a wheel alignment. They could not get near the correct toe in setting on the driver's side

Umm. doesn't the RRC require toe OUT?

I'll check the workshop manual.

Yes, 1.2 to 2.44mm (0.046 to 0.093 in) toe out.

Toe in might cause tyre wear.

Originally Posted by p38arover

Umm. doesn't the RRC require toe OUT?

I'll check the workshop manual.

Yes, 1.2 to 2.44mm (0.046 to 0.093 in) toe out.

Toe in might cause tyre wear.

Much the same with Discos.

Seriously, anyone suggesting repositioning the steering wheel doesn't know how to do an alignment. Go elsewhere.

G`day ,
`
we`ve a 93 hard and 94 soft dash , both are straight bar the woof to clear the diff i guess , both are around/roughly 82cm bolt centre to centre .

Let's all be on the same page here. The Panhard rod is usually a fixed length, and is used to centralise the axle in the chassis. Adjustable ones are used if the car is lifted, which disturbs the relationship. In the normal course of things it never needs to be touched, except to replace it because the bushes are worn, or it is bent. There is no requirement to adjust it for wheel alignment purposes other than compensating for a ride height change. Of course, if it's the wrong length the axle will not be centred in the chassis and geometry will be wrong. Not sure how close a D1 is to a RRC, but my D1 has an adjustable Panhard as it is lifted. I would say it's about 2mm longer than the figure PLR quoted. It should be noted that it cannot be adjusted in place, but must be removed.

If your Panhard is too long you will never get the alignment right, and I imagine the car could crab.

Mine:
IMG_5390.jpgIMG_5389.jpg
Much beefier than stock so hard to bend. Needs to be adjusted to proper length prior to fitment.

Plumb line the chassis to the axle. If the plumb isn't in the SA relative spot over the axle in relation the the axle flange (where the swivel bolts on) is not within 2mm then your poniard rod is

If that checks out.

Axle stand the front end.

Put a dot on the edge of a tread block on each wheel.

Measure the distance to the dots at the most forwards position.

Do the same at the rear,

The front measurement should be 1-2 mm wider than the rear.

I personally prefer the handling of a 0-1mm spread on road tyres.


Good luck

Originally Posted by PLR

G`day ,
`
we`ve a 93 hard and 94 soft dash , both are straight bar the woof to clear the diff i guess , both are around/roughly 82cm bolt centre to centre .

Thanks PLR,
Reassured to know the bar should be straight

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Plumb line the chassis to the axle. If the plumb isn't in the SA relative spot over the axle in relation the the axle flange (where the swivel bolts on) is not within 2mm then your poniard rod is

If that checks out.

Axle stand the front end.

Put a dot on the edge of a tread block on each wheel.

Measure the distance to the dots at the most forwards position.

Do the same at the rear,

The front measurement should be 1-2 mm wider than the rear.

I personally prefer the handling of a 0-1mm spread on road tyres.


Good luck

Thanks Dave, I'll do those checks tomorrow - my gut instinct is that it is the axle position that's the problem. I'm even wondering if the whole axle is somehow set back on one side relative to the other.

Originally Posted by aRRon

T I'm even wondering if the whole axle is somehow set back on one side relative to the other.

If it is then the chassis is bent or the radius arms are stuffed. The wrong, or bent. Panhard will move the axle to one side. Dave has told you how to check that.