Thread: Fusible link -Where and what part number for 1991 Hi-Line

Forget about replacing fusible links - they are in a bundle along the drivers side inner guard between the battery and the firewall, they will be orange in colour. each one is rated 60A. (orange)

Suggestion is to rewire the harness with a proper distribution box - single feed in with proper B&S cable, then break it out into each circuit, and re-rate (de-rate) each circuit based on it's feeder capacity.
Essentially you'll need to follow the feed to the fuse panels / boxes and verify the fuse capacity for each.
Then it's simply a matter of confirming the fuse value equals the total of the sub-fuses in each of the fuse boxes.
If you want the easy way, then yes, 60A fuse for each fusible link being replaced (i.e. removing the orange fusible link cable)

I recall that I re-rated mine for a couple of 40A feeds, a 100A or 125A feed and the rest were 60A, and I used a disco fuse box - which was a much better idea.
No small effort though, because some of the cables were woefully inadequate in current handling and lengths.

Originally Posted by Mercguy

Forget about replacing fusible links - they are in a bundle along the drivers side inner guard between the battery and the firewall, they will be orange in colour. each one is rated 60A. (orange)

Suggestion is to rewire the harness with a proper distribution box - single feed in with proper B&S cable, then break it out into each circuit, and re-rate (de-rate) each circuit based on it's feeder capacity.
Essentially you'll need to follow the feed to the fuse panels / boxes and verify the fuse capacity for each.
Then it's simply a matter of confirming the fuse value equals the total of the sub-fuses in each of the fuse boxes.
If you want the easy way, then yes, 60A fuse for each fusible link being replaced (i.e. removing the orange fusible link cable)

I recall that I re-rated mine for a couple of 40A feeds, a 100A or 125A feed and the rest were 60A, and I used a disco fuse box - which was a much better idea.
No small effort though, because some of the cables were woefully inadequate in current handling and lengths.

Great advice from you as usual. What would we do without you?

Actually I persisted and have the ignition working again so the engine now starts - achieved by running a new wire from the battery to the ignition switch. Yet another "work around"on this beast.
Everything now works except the windscreen wipers so I have missed a couple ofwires somewhere. Never mind. What else would I do other than work on a Land Rover?

Progress - of sorts!

I found a wire from the column switch that when powered by a positive jump wire makes the wipers work BUT they now operate permanently when the column switch is moved. Now I need to find which wire (or combination of wires) provides the various wiper setings.

Thick as I am, I find the diagrams incomprehensible.

Can anyone provide a achematic for the wiper wire colours please?

the fusable links are up beside the battery. Why don't you just bypass them all and see if you issues go away? If they do, fit proper fuses up there as suggested