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Thread: Fans and Viscous Clutch 1984 Two Door

  1. #1
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    Fans and Viscous Clutch 1984 Two Door

    Hi Guys, finally getting around to changing the waterpump on the '84 I imported to the US this year. It had an engine change at one point but is a 14D code 3.5 with SU's, Power Steering, and AC. It also has a viscous clutch and the white 7 blade fan. I ordered the same water pump that was on it after going through a bunch of pictures and it is STC1610. However, on disassembly over the weekend, I had to pull the radiator to get everything out. There was not enough clearance between the end of the pump and the radiator to slide the fan through, even when removed from the clutch and with the shroud loose.
    The fan was also bolted to the front of the clutch, though that wouldn't change the amount of clearance to slide through once removed. Do I have a case of mismatched parts? If so, does anyone have some idea which fan should be on this combination? I've already got the pump and would rather not source another one, but if that needs to change when I do a 4.6 for this truck that would also be good to know.

    Thanks! Merry Christmas!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by kellen302 View Post
    Hi Guys, finally getting around to changing the waterpump on the '84 I imported to the US this year. It had an engine change at one point but is a 14D code 3.5 with SU's, Power Steering, and AC. It also has a viscous clutch and the white 7 blade fan. I ordered the same water pump that was on it after going through a bunch of pictures and it is STC1610. However, on disassembly over the weekend, I had to pull the radiator to get everything out. There was not enough clearance between the end of the pump and the radiator to slide the fan through, even when removed from the clutch and with the shroud loose.
    The fan was also bolted to the front of the clutch, though that wouldn't change the amount of clearance to slide through once removed. Do I have a case of mismatched parts? If so, does anyone have some idea which fan should be on this combination? I've already got the pump and would rather not source another one, but if that needs to change when I do a 4.6 for this truck that would also be good to know.

    Thanks! Merry Christmas!
    Kind of doesn't make sense, in that ... was the engine was complete, or in parts?
    we assume that it all fitted prior to you disassembling it all, so old pump/fan/rad all fit before, but now with the new pump it doesn't?

    If that's right, and you just used pictured of the pump type and not sized illustrations, maybe you bought the longer shaft pump .. you needed a shorter shaft pump too.

    I remember all this silliness with Rover v8s(cars) where it seemed like there was hundreds of different combinations of them.

    Do all the pulleys and belts line up right?

    How did it all fit before you pulled apart?

    From the illustrations I have seen, the shaft lengths of the two 'one bolt' fan setups are:

    STC1610 Flange thickness is 5mm, main (thick) shaft length is 56.8mm and the threaded (thin) shaft length is 28.4mm, so total shaft from the front of the flange to the start of the thread is 85.2mm.
    R613273 is the other one bolt pump type, flange thickness is 5mm too, main (thick) shaft length is 31.5mm and the threaded (thin) shaft length is 35mm, ie. total shaft length is 66.5mm .. about 20mm(about 1") shorter.

    If you chose the waterpump just by the style(ie. one bolt type vs 4 bolt type vs large thread type) then you can easily confuse the long shaft with the short shaft.

    Measure the lengths of the shafts on your pump. if the new one is the 85mm length, and your old one is the 66mm length, then you need the R613273 pump.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  3. #3
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    Bit of a misunderstanding. Everything was assembled and working beforehand, but during removal, there was not enough clearance to remove the fan off the end of the pump without removing the radiator first. All belts and pulleys line up, I have not assembled the new pump onto the truck yet as I had to get new bolts. I was just curious if this was an issue with Australia/CKD specific combinations of parts as the factory manual says the fan and clutch then shroud can be removed without taking the radiator out.
    It should all go back together fine, I just have to install the fan and clutch prior to putting the radiator back in.

    The engine was replaced long before I owned the vehicle and has been running and driving since, I just added that because I know it is not the original engine.

  4. #4
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    Ah, OK sorry. now makes sense.

    Never had anything to do with an 84.

    I had a 79. I remember fan and VC could come off easily without removing rad. had to do many times .. stupid VC hubs used to kill themselves regularly.
    Them and the terrible old 40A alternators.

    In fact radiator on my '79 only ever came out/off once, whereas fan and VC many times.
    I owned the RRC for about 20 years driven as a daily for about 15 of those.

    I grew tired of the VC hub issue, and finally removed it after about 10 years and installed twin electric fans to mine.

    Shroud wouldn't come off because of fan, but you had to loosen the shroud and pull it back to get to the the fan/VC hub nut .. but definitely didn't need to remove rad.

    I know that Rover was making many changes to pumps and fans and pulleys and stuff for a short period about that 80-90s era, so obviously yours is different.

    Also a note: I can't find any info on a 14D rover v8.

    There are many sources for RV8 engine codes, what vehicle/manufacturer it was used in, etc.

    14A , 14E and 14G can be found, but no 14D on the lists. And searching this issue, there is a thread on here from 2018 where another member had the same engine code. These engine code lists have 13D and skip to 15D for this period of RRC.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  5. #5
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    My 7th month 82 RRC has a 14D engine also.
    Had me confused as I couldn’t find any information on a 14D either.
    25E7595E-C1E2-4348-B4AF-CDEF1FFAB2C4.jpg
    Compression ratio is 9.35:1

    Phil

  6. #6
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    Well thanks for the tips, I put everything back together with the STC1610 pump and put the radiator/shroud/fan/coupler all in at the same time. I'll take a deeper dive when I do a stroker engine for this truck. I'm wondering if it should have a different pump/fan/pulley arrangement because it has AC? Not clear whether it was a factory install or if it was installed by Vitesse in Melbourne in the 80's. It is a factory type system, but some of the wiring is a bit haphazard, even for Land Rover.
    No leaks from the water pump, but the rubber hose on the heater return to the back of the pump is a real challenge, definitely a bit of a kink there to match the one I took off. Now if I can just get this dang intake manifold to seal at the ports...

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