Its a long job because of the injection needing to come off.ok all its that time ,need to change the head gasket as im getting the early signs .that is pressure in the tank ,split tank etc. Any tricks ,hazzards or tips for a do it your self job .
tips-
1 Mark the position of the dizzy to the timing cover with "white out"or similar. Mark the position of the rotor to the dizzy body. So you can put em back and be sure-er that it will go.
2 I would have the heads shaved 35thou and use OEM "Ehling" 4litre 10 hole composite gaskets. It doesn't matter about the outer bolts,as you have to leave them out because there are no holes in the gasket.
I had teflon seals fitted to my inlets only. This will reduce oil consumption.
3 Have the heads serviced when they are shaved. It only costs a couple of hundred if the guides are OK,which is highly probable.
4 Look at the cam and lifters. Any pitting or discolouration on the lobes means a new cam, chain and lifters. Its much easier to do it with the valley gasket already off.
5 Use a steel valley gasket, as the composites have a habit of dropping the composite material into the valley.
6 I use Hylomar spray on gasket goo on both sides of the valley gasket wher eit meets the ports and inlet manifold, and a double coating around the water passages in each end of the manifold.
7 The valley gasket has a front which unsurprisingly is marked "Front". Put it to the front.
8 The rear head bolts are a Bitch to get at. I reused mine . I used Holden stud thread sealant when reassembling. The sealant is not to seal , as all stud holes are "blind" It is to stop the bolts corroding into the head.
Make sure to clean all the holes thoroughly, and make sure there is no water in any hole. You will find water around the back of the block. I suggest that you lower the level with a syringe or similar so there is no possibility of water in the head bolt holes.
Good luck and don't skin too many knuckles.
Regards Philip A


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