Thread: 89 Rangie Project & pics

mmm, well then I'll take a look at it, not having that long of a bar is also a problem (Will have on Saturday tho)

and I have no issues with unbolting stuff as everyone here can see Thanks for that tho - started to wonder if there was a section. I'll check it in the service manual as well.

Because at the end of the day it will be easier then trying to get to the top of bellhousing from the bottom

well - I got the case of "cbf'ed" aka can't be ****ed

but I did get the fuel tank off which is nice.
Didn't find the floor pan section, but then I couldn't be stuffed pulling the centre console off tonight as it was cold & raining & stuff... STUFF!

so tomorrow I am buying seals and a few other things plus some extra tools to help make it easier. will be fun!

BTW - Thanks for the good luck Mike I think I'll need it hehe

D-DAY!

not a bad day at all

Old engine is out - but ran in to a problem where the wrong bolts were undone for the torque converter :/ costed an extra hour, plus one bell housing bolt was well hidden
But all in all - the bell housing bolts, which I pegged to be the worst - were some of the easiest ones. Torque converter bolts where a bitch. other wise - all was pretty smooth. Taking off the bonnet & getting on top of the engine made it easy to do the top bell housing bolts.
Got rained on a few times which suxed. but at the stage we were at when it rained - a simple push in to the carport kept us dry & so we kept on.

After getting the old engine out & supporting the transmission, we called it a day. Inspected both engines side by side to figure out what needs to be changed, and there is a fair bit - so early start tomorrow - lunch time we start mounting & lining up the new engine - the goal being to line it up with the torque converter & bell housing & bolt it all up with the engine mounts done up as well. From here I can work on the engine over the next week or two getting new hoses or anything else I need to get her going

One of my mates beat me to getting a bbq spread - instead rocked up with a huge lamb lol so the webber got fired up, had a few other things rocking as well when we were done. So a awesome roast leg of lamb, some roasted potato's, salad & beer to finish it off.

oh & some piccys


Engine to go in, carbie manifold gone, efi one to go one... however there is a cooling pipe that runs under it - I don't have another as the carbie manifold was taken away.




torque converter


Working away

Cheers to all - now for one more beer & bed to start tomorrow

Razzor ...
Good to see
A lot of parts need changing ...

Tip for you ... When you go to put the coolant back into the engine ... Remember that they are a B##ch to bleed (get all the air out)


1 .... The thermostat ... Drill a 3mm hole in the plate of the thermostat // Install thermo with the "hole to top" ... This helps with bleeding the air out of the engine when filling up with coolant (act's as bypass when thermo shut)

2 ... Remember that the new motor has a lot of crap in it .... Put a stocking (yes the girls legs one) inside (at the hose to radiator clamp connection) the top radiator hose to catch / filter all the particals as it flows through .... clean it after the motor has been warmed

Stockings stretch like crazy .. so only insert about 75mm inside the hose
Clean and replace it everyday of driving for 1 week // or remove when particals are gone

If you don't then the radiator will cop it all (blocked radiator cores)
You can buy a proper filter sock (made in Queensland) to do the job .. I use one ... good for 5000k's // check all the time ... saves on the cost of rodding the radiator, because the radiator cores never block up

This is the "most important part" of the whole process that can make or break the work you have done

3..... FILLING & STARTING the motor
Turn the cabin heater to ON (the water must flow through the cabin heater to bleed the air out)
Take the brass water plug off the radiator
Take the radiator expansion cap off
Fill from the "top brass bleed plug" ONLY (located on top of the left hand side rocker cover) until the water level is full (in radiator & expansion tank)

Put the expansion tank on
Put the radiator plug on
Top up water in "top brass bleed plug"
Put that plug on

Then take off radiator plug & start motor
Watch the coolant level through the radiator plug hole (expansion cap on & "top brass bleed plug"on)
Minor fills through radiator plug hole /// Major fills through the "top brass bleed plug"
It will bubble and gurgle as the air passes through & the water level settles

Start motor and watch the coolant level constantly // STOP the motor if the level b**ches about // top up and then restart // watch constantly

Recheck when motor is cold & check the next day



I run mine on Tap water & add 2 cans of Castrol inhibitor (our water is OK for this .. don't know about your's ..But rain water is OK)

A trick i learnt when changing my coolant was the following


I screw a retic fitting (same thread) to the top brass bleed plug
.. Connect a water hose to Retic fitting
I take radiator plug out // Take expansion tank cap off
....and turn on tap ... and leave it running for 10 minutes till the water changes colour

Add coolant .... All good as no air entered the system and all the coolant in the block that would normally be locked in, has been moved on & out // check levels // drive away (works for me)

Remember ... Air stuck in a motor is not funny ... It will cost you the heads
If any one else can add to this subject ..please do

Mike

cheers mate.

Will go over that stuff.... when its in :/

Tip for working with mates - stay in charge of what's happening if you have researched the project your self.
We didn't get the engine in today - but if I had stuck to my guns, picked up the service manual, it would be lol have to laugh at it now but still.

It will be in tomorrow

mm, bit of an update.

Today I decided to lift the heads on my 89 engine & see what the water jacket looks like. I had in the week punched out a few welsh plugs & it wasn't too bad inside.

Same thing with the heads - water jacket seem ok, as in it hasn't eaten through.

I am going to get the heads shaved, replace another seal or two, get a compression test for ring wear idea & go from there.

Still got this 84 carb engine here :/ it needs to go.

Is the compression test is bad or looks like I'll need to re-ring it - I am not sure if I should go down that path or there is a 89 engine that blew a head gasket, could grab that & shave heads & see how it goes from there.

Apart from that, replaced the torque converter seal as well.

Tomorrow I am going to see about fitting up rear bar & fuel tank as well as some work to my bike lol

Well - I decided!

Just made the call to find out how much a head shave is, re-ring & hone.

For about 700 ~ 800 odd bucks - I am doing it. Heads & block will be dropped off this week.

Yeah - I am happy.

This week is fitment of bits like fuel tank & rear bar. Clean up of engine bay a little & pull the steering box out as well... tho I am thinking of just getting the engine in & sending it off to the power steering blocks lol I will have done enough by that time

mmm, had a set back in that my work contract ended & I made the mistake of not covering my self & believing a TL.

Anyway - bullbar is on, rear bar is on - but needs to come off again lol, figured it will be easier to fit the fuel tank first

Going to drop off engine bit tomorrow for the work... other wise its been small clean ups.