In the beer fridge:p;)Quote:
Originally Posted by RaZz0R
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In the beer fridge:p;)Quote:
Originally Posted by RaZz0R
lol yeah beer will be running high/low on that day lol
Cracked all the bolts for the fuel tank, its ready to drop, all hoses bar one I think are set to go.
Also - I am unbolting a towbar that I have on there. Kayman/reese one. Fits with the standard bar fitted ;)
Got the last rear mountng done for the pipe system, so thats pretty much ready for the new 2.5" :) but I'll have to still cut some sections to get it all off.
next is centre console - then floor pan section for bell housing bolts ;) FUN FUN FUN!!
Whilts on the subject of tanks, I would cut a access panel for your fuel pump for future mishaps. I did this on the 87 Rangie because pre 3.9's don't have a fuel pump access and you have to drop the tank to change it. Not always a practical option in the middle of nowhere if your fuel pump goes :(
I used an old floor from a wreck, still have some actually but with a few screws and some sealant, you wouldn't know it's there :)
Trav
Hey Razzor .... If ya keep unbolting ... that chassie is gonna fall off it's rails :p :p :pQuote:
Originally Posted by RaZz0R
Bet you have got a fair amount of skin missing off your knuckles .. ;)
Take it easy and enjoy the "rebuild" :)
Mike
aquarangie - that's a really cool idea :) I'll do that, after rego ;) hehehe
Mike!!! HAHAHAH!!
I have to admit today I got a really good smack of the hand when my socket wrench
slipped while I had full strength applied - hurt like a mofo!! BUT!!!
Since I work in IT - my poor soft baby hands, only got 2 .. no wait.. 3 chunks of flesh missing off the right index & middle finger knuckles lol :) So I have done well.... to be honest, it has been pretty easy getting all this off & the only bolts that gave me trouble were the pipe bolts, even then I expected the headers to be the worst, but it was the mid mounting bolts that were the worst hahah :)
Also I wanted to use my wit(lol) to see how much I could do with out going back to the manual or just asking a question & working it out - have you guys to thank for the help ;) but managed to work most of it out & apply logic to it.... which brings me to the rangie. I like the way the thing was built. Its... just logical... well some times I have to admit when nutting out how to take something off, then going, "Awesome bit of engineering!! Very logical!" But then not more then 20mins later I would go "Now what tard had that ****ed up idea???!!!" :) I am sure I'll have lots more of that to come.
Really?Quote:
Originally Posted by RaZz0R
I've never removed the floor to access the bellhousing bolts (can the floor section even be removed on an '89?).
Get yourself a long 3/8" extension, remove the engine mounts & drop the engine down an inch or two for easier access.
mmm, now I am worried lol
It was suggested to me that the removal of a section of floor pan will give easy acess to the top of the bell housing & it is also how landrover recommend doing it. This section is meant to be under the centre console....
Other wise yes... its that bar.. but ffs, there is stuff all room under there, no body lift - and I am trying to make it easy....
****, now I don't know if I should go ahead & undo the centre console tonight or not :(
Anyway to know for sure? apart from doing it?
Tonights list is:
Final removal of the fuel tank & drain it
final removal of the exhaust pipes (bit of angel griner cutting :) )
Unbolt plate for access to torque convert / drive flex plate
Mark EFI wiring & undo the rest of it
Unbolt starter motor & 2 final ground wires
Unbolt transmission oil cooler bracked along engine
Unbolt the steering box - or atleast get most of the bolts cracked
Crack bottom bellhousing bolts
Figure out how to get to the top of the bellhousing bolts either via centre console, via removeable floor section, or fuggin long bar to socket wrench - So its ready for the Saturday
That's how I did it.Quote:
Originally Posted by RaZz0R
1 1/2 engine R&Rs in 4 nights after hydraulicking mine.
Both completely standard cars.
Ive had the gearbox out of mine a few times and I have never removed the floor. I have used the long bar from the rear. Last time I used a ratchet spanner down from the top after using a flexible ratchet and socket to get the bolt loose. It's very tight but much easier than removing the floor.
Thomas
mmm, not the whole floor pan - there is meant to be a section of it.
I have this afternoon & tomorrow morning to figure it out.