Thread: R/R 1990 Electronic Dizzy

Update on dizzy

Well i solved half of it
Bought a new Dizzy, but still can't get her to go past 4000 rpm without her popping through the intake. Have resolved to test the feed volts to the coil (10.6v) which came in 2 volts lower than the battery (12.6v)

Does anyone know the constant volt supply to the coil? is it 12 volts constant or does it get resisted to a lower spec. The idea is to bypass the ignition & give it a fresh feed. If it comes up trumps, then i know a Auto spark is required.

PROBLEM SOLVED
The voltage was too low.
I bridged to the coil feed to the battery and all is fine

Outcome: Employ auto spark to check & replace wire feeds

NOTE:
I have answered this post (it's not normal for me to talk to myself) so others with this problem can see what the outcome was, as i believe that it is a common one that causes a lot of heartache.

seriously - thank you for that - it will be something I'll have to watch for as well

I was going to post earlier when I saw this suggesting the ECU maybe, nice to see it was that simple but a pain to track down for sure.

Mmmm, didn't read enough, you've already fixed it

Hi to all 1990 (+or- year) rangie owners

Does your:
Alternator light glow?...Lights dull?...voltage drop issues?...Electrics ignition causes motor to "pop"?...Remote door locks not really working?

Well: check the positive terminal post on the fire wall
you can't miss it, as the + lead to the starter motor is bolted to it & on the inside of car, above / left of the brake pedal, 4 brown wires are bolted to it.

The post will be rusted and the brown wires will be burnt
A good setup for a electrical fire

So:
Change that positive terminal post, & cut & extend those feed brown wires plus a new starter motor feed line.

I did and now this car has full spark. I can actually see the road at night!!!

signed,
On to the next repair

mm, Iam going to check over mine tomorrow then