sounds like a bearing on the way out, how much metals coming out when you do an oil change.
If it were me Id be getting an exchange box on standby swapping them out and giving back the old one to get the deposit back.
My old Rangie is a 1984 - so I think this is an LT77 gearbox. I kind of like the long stick - reminds me of my Dad's old farm trucks, anyway I digress.
I see a few opinions on which gearboxs are better etc and I suppose that will come later - what I am trying to guage is what to do with the one I have.
1st - engages easily - synchros seem fine. Small shudder from clutch on take up.
2nd - shift quick from 1st and all is good. If slow double clutch.
3rd - all good
4th - Double clutch and rev match everytime or risk rejection - noisy but not alarming.
5th - Easy gate, single clutch fine, same noise as 4th
Back down - behaviour more or less the same - but then I was kind of not using the box for engine braking - pads and rotors are cheaper
Anyway my question is this - should I....
- Just drive it till it dies - could go for another 50k
- Be proactive and rebuild it
- Let it 'expire' in any way it chooses and replace with a more modern box
Will the box 'let go' in a spectacular fashion and leave me stranded somewhere or will it just slowly decline.
If I strip 4th for example can I get home on the rest or will I just grenade what is left inside the box? Or is it easier to get rid of the LT77 and upgrade to something better rather then rebuild it.
My boat weighs about 1.3T and is on a single axle, so not the kindest thing to tow - and calling 2 x tilt trays to come collect me won't be cheap.
I spotted a new LT77 for $2,500 and wondered what the going rate for these things is. Any thoughts? Terry
sounds like a bearing on the way out, how much metals coming out when you do an oil change.
If it were me Id be getting an exchange box on standby swapping them out and giving back the old one to get the deposit back.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
LT77 are easy to find...
look in the markets.. i'm wrecking a Disco with LT77....
I've got a recently recoed, long stick LT77 here, $450 its yours![]()
Sounds better than $2,500 alright. Does this include the transfer case? I guess you can PM me and can discuss further. Only issue Mexico is a long way south of the border! But in reality - would you replace it with an LT77 or should I take the opportunity to change it to something better - or is this not worth the hassle? I'm not going hardcore or anything. Terry
PS - What is a beaver tail?
Beaver tail is a tray truck with a bend in the tray, AKA banana back
No transfer included, Its up to you what you do, the simple way is just swap with a good unit, then continue on, how long has it lasted?
Can you do a swap yourself? maybe....its worth it, if your paying DONT bother changing transmission types, it'll cost$$ and 84 rangies aren't worth that much![]()
Well I did find an answer - from a British website that was very helpful. This was taken from the Haynes Manual and I think pretty much answers my own question. I think this website is an interesting one.
So if anyone needs to read more here is the link and the quote. Terry
Land Rover FAQ - Repair & Maintenance - Range Rover
4.2 General Points
The hand brake drum is held on by two small screws and the propshaft bolts. It is highly recommended that the propshaft nuts be replaced if the vehicle is operated without the rear propshaft fitted, as two small screws vibrate loose very quickly. If the propshaft nuts are not there, the heavy lump of metal exits the vehicle with some violence and may make handbrake-shaped holes in sheep standing by the side of the road.
When the vehicle is driven with one propshaft removed, it is essential that the differential lock be engaged. Otherwise you'll go nowhere or burn out any limited slip doodads in the gearbox. If you don't have a centre difflock, you should probably be towing it home with both propshafts removed.
The Haynes Manual has a quotable quote which is particularly applicable to this gearbox.
Note: It is sometimes difficult to decide whether it is worthwhile removing and dismantling the gearbox for a fault which may be nothing more than a minor irritant. Gearboxes which howl, or where the synchromesh is worn but double declutching can overcome the problem, may continue to perform for a long time in this stage. A worn gearbox usually needs a complete rebuild to eliminate noise because the various gears, if re-aligned on new bearings, will continue to howl or begin to howl when different wearing surfaces are presented to each other. The decision to overhaul therefore, must be considered with regard to time and money available, relative to the degree of noise or malfunction that the driver can tolerate.
i.e. if it ain't *really* broke, don't fix it.
So, you don't want that LT77 that you said you'd take?
I'll let some other people now its NOW available then
Hey ho whoa neddy! Of course I want the box. I don't suspect the one I have will last forever. I just wanted to know how do these things die. Do they do it slowly or suddenly. Will it be a situation that controls me or one I need to take charge of.
So if our previous arrangement is still ok with you I am happy to proceed. If I am going to have a 1984 RRC then I guess a spare box is almost normal parts inventory.
Just doing a bit of research on if this is a job I can do myself or one I should pay someone to do. By the looks of it I think I should pay someone. Some of the pictures I have seen with the whole dash and interior out seem pretty over the top.
Do you have any prior arrangements for sending a box to Wagga or Sydney?
Anyways let me know. Terry
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