Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: p76 overheating in range rover

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    melbourne, aust.
    Posts
    29
    Total Downloaded
    0

    p76 overheating in range rover

    Hi All,

    Ive heard of problems with rangies overheating but this thing has got me beat. I put a p76 engine in out of another rangie and one of the hoses out the back of the water pump is blocked off n the other goes to a series of hoses for the back of the engine n heater etc..

    Now on the freeway n road driving its ok but soon as it hits the bush for a couple of hours it overheats. I ripped out the thermostat, still does it, flushed the radiator n still does it, took off the clutch fan n put on fulltime thermo's and still does it.

    Would anyone have any pics of the top of a p76 in a range rover and how they have ran the hoses out the back of the water pump please?

    Or would anyone have any other suggestions on how to fix this?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Slow Disco Guest
    Hi, I can give you some pics of a mates p76 engine in a p76 if this helps? Sounds like the radiator is stuffed, flushing or having it serviced by a "radiator shop" can do/ mean bugger all if it's damaged/corroded inside.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    melbourne, aust.
    Posts
    29
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Yeah I thought so, But it was fine with the old 3.5 engine, no overheating or anything... and the heater isnt pumping out as much heat anymore

    Umm yeah if you have some pics of ur mates p76 particulary behind the water pump n where the 2 hoses go that would be fantastic thanks

  4. #4
    Slow Disco Guest
    What's your email address, not sure how to load onto website?

    So, maybe it's the new engine?

    I would also try a new radiator cap, with correct pressure. Make sure it has the correct cap fitted, that is - if overflow goes to the ground, cap must not have rubber around the base of cap as it does with "closed" systems. Often people put "closed system" caps on open systems.

    I would put thermostat back in once you have determined the fault, put in the lowest you can get, drill a 2-3mm hole in thermostat so any air bubbles can vent out of system. Did you air bleed system with heater fully on with new engine?

    Would swap over or get a new temp sender from engine, good practise as they can fail and damage temp guages.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    melbourne, aust.
    Posts
    29
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Yeah I thought it might be the new engine, Well the funny thing is the temp sensor doesnt work so I only know its overheating when it pops the overflow hose off n ****es out water so its not the gauge hehe (Im in the middle of putting a gauge in as we speak)

    My email address is troy@ctech.cjb.net. Thanks heaps for this..

    New cap you say? ill have to give that a go, i was also going to try a different water pump because with the top hose off the manifold on idle the water just sits there and only moves when it's rev'd. Ill put the thermostat back in, its always good to run it hehe

    I might take the radiator down to the shop n get them to flow test it and replace the core or whatever they do and get rid of that silly small radiator bottle n weld a cap directly on the radiator.

  6. #6
    Slow Disco Guest
    I've emailed 5 pics.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    melbourne, aust.
    Posts
    29
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Slow Disco View Post
    I've emailed 5 pics.
    Thanks heaps for that! I havent got thenm through yet but ill check again tomorrow!

  8. #8
    Fnukle Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by maxpower View Post
    I was also going to try a different water pump because with the top hose off the manifold on idle the water just sits there and only moves when it's rev'd.
    Well that sounds like your problem right there, Water should always be flowing through your radiator hoses if you dont have the thermostat fitted. So deffinately sounds like the water pump.

    For an easy radiator check at home, water hose on high in the top inlet and check the flow out the bottom, should be a pretty easy full on flow

    Also just in case
    make sure your core isnt filled with mud/stuff, blow out with compressed air or even a water hose but dont use a pressure washer as it will bend the core fins.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    melbourne, aust.
    Posts
    29
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hey yeah thanks for that. Ive found that with the standard p76 manifold it doesnt have a inlet in the front n back. So one of the smaller hoses out the back of the waterpump has a hose blocker on it and the other runs to the heater n back of block, This was the way it was set up in the range rover that it came from but I dont think that did any offroading.

    I was wondering how any other people have setup the manifold cooling and the back of the waterpump?

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!