Thread: general Guidance / opinions

Can't help with the diff/tyre questions, but just a comment that if it is an '87 it will be a 3.5 and not a 3.9 (unless it ihas been re-engined of course). I think the 3.9s came in in '89 or '90.

Originally Posted by 4range

G'day All,

I am about to purchase a RR Classic 87'.

Its a 3.9 duel fuel conversion with 70k on the motor & transmission, from new.

I have suspicions about the diffs & the A frame ball joint & am thinking that I would like to have some work done to : -

- rebuild / replace the diffs
- install 31" x 10's tyres - or similar
- Spring lift ( to suit tyres )

I will be using the vehicle as a daily driver but want the flexibility to tackle some of the slightly more challenging tracks ( hence the tyres & Lift).

Importantly, this will also be my primary tow vehicle & will need to be well behaved when towing the boat.

Hi 4range

Is this right?? ... you found a 1987 RRC with only 70.000 K's on the clock
If so .. it's practically brand new!!!!! (You luckyyyyyyy bug###)

To answer the Diff / Suspention Q .... What type / weight is the boat???
And is it Auto or manual

If the diffs need looking at, then I would upgrade them to diff locks and stronger axles, and this would be the first thing I would do, as this is a cost prevention measure as I see it, as it will save you having to replace broken diffs and axles as you start to do harder four wheel driving with larger tyres.

As for tyres, well that's a bottomless can of worms, as tyres are a matter of opinion, and depends on what sort of tracks you intend to do. Personally, I would be going for 235x85R16(32") or 255x85R16's(33"). As 10 years ago 31x10.5x16's were too small. I'm not sure how much lift or guard trimming you need to do for these tyres. But rather than spring lifting to make the tyres fit, you would be better off body lifting, as you keep the centre of gravity low, and you don't run into the caster issues, and on a rangie, it's fairly easy to do.

If the diffs are sus it will have over 200000 kms on it They break at 70000 before wear out. The clunk is often A frame ball joint. Also check the bushes in rear arms. The center Diff in LT230 can have a bit of back lash as well. Put hand brake on and shift foward to reverse if it still clunks it may be in transfer box or out put shaft of trany.
I would not bother with 10 spline RR diffs. Cost same or less to stick 24 spline disco. Or Air locker/Truetrack/ Hi Tuff axles etc. Depends how hard you charge off road.
If you want to tow with it bigger tyres will hinder it and will need 4.11 Cwps

2.5' body lift /Flares/ 4.11 cwps/ Lockers 24 spline axles and 33" tyres go very well .

PM Rovercare, he may have some Dico diffs and shafts to get you going. If you cant find some. Stay away from dealers on this stuff. They rip you off.

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

2.5' body lift /Flares/ 4.11 cwps/ Lockers 24 spline axles and 33" tyres go very well .

Yes, will go very well. The downside is that it will cost a tadd more than $10

If you want a cheap upgrade (like I do), then wait until the axels break before replacing them (thats what im doing anyway :P) and just get some 235x85 tyres. With a 2" spring lift (give Shane from Suspensionstuff.com a call) you wont need to worry about cutting guards or a body lift.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by stooge

Yes, will go very well. The downside is that it will cost a tadd more than $10 Only about 8 of 9 k more
Disco 24 spl Diffs are cheap though. I agree with break it then replace it when on a tight budget.

If you want a cheap upgrade (like I do), then wait until the axels break before replacing them (thats what im doing anyway :P) and just get some 235x85 tyres. With a 2" spring lift (give Shane from Suspensionstuff.com a call) you wont need to worry about cutting guards or a body lift.

Cheers,

My old 2 door is done on cheap has been a heap of fun.
Only new parts in it are the pootrol shocks at $80 each. The rest was scrap inc the P76 donk. Now has s/h holden starfire pistons in it as they were free
Picked up a sals diff for it free too. Might make it into a grader

Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

Hi 4range

Is this right?? ... you found a 1987 RRC with only 70.000 K's on the clock
If so .. it's practically brand new!!!!! (You luckyyyyyyy bug###)

To answer the Diff / Suspention Q .... What type / weight is the boat???
And is it Auto or manual

Definately 70K - Its a new motor & Auto transmission transplant + new Transfer case. I know its genuine, I know the person that built it.

Trouble is, nothing was really done underneath other than new shocks & airbags in the rear, so the diffs & swivels prop shafts etc have probably got about 470k's on them !

The boat is a 5 meter aluminium and I hope under 750kg (no trailer brakes!!)

regards

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

If the diffs are sus it will have over 200000 kms on it They break at 70000 before wear out. The clunk is often A frame ball joint. Also check the bushes in rear arms. The center Diff in LT230 can have a bit of back lash as well. Put hand brake on and shift foward to reverse if it still clunks it may be in transfer box or out put shaft of trany.
I would not bother with 10 spline RR diffs. Cost same or less to stick 24 spline disco. Or Air locker/Truetrack/ Hi Tuff axles etc. Depends how hard you charge off road.
If you want to tow with it bigger tyres will hinder it and will need 4.11 Cwps

2.5' body lift /Flares/ 4.11 cwps/ Lockers 24 spline axles and 33" tyres go very well .

PM Rovercare, he may have some Dico diffs and shafts to get you going. If you cant find some. Stay away from dealers on this stuff. They rip you off.

The bushes in the rear arms were done about a month ago apparently but then I dont know which ones.
As i have answered above, I'm not worried about the T/C as i know this is relatively new (same one as in the Disco 2 I believe- not viscous).

I'm not planning on competition standard off road - just something that's a little more adventurous.

Why do you say "EEK" on 4.11 Crown wheel Pinions, & what is the difference between these & standard?

I am a little worried about a body lift & 33's for 2 reasons: -

1. I dont think that I would be able to get it in the garage (what would be the likely height at the roof?)
2.body lift means re-engineering things like bullbar, radiator seat belt mounts & brake lines & what ever else goes with that, and whilst I know what a spanner looks like, I have never ventured beyond springs shockers & head gaskets !