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Thread: 89 rrc - removing starter motor.

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
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    Firstly, a 5/16" hex key is the right one, and it is slightly bigger than 8mm, so there is the rounding off problem right there.
    Secondly, This is a job for an apprentice or someone with contortionist skills and infinite patience.


    Good luck.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  2. #12
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    Jan 1970
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    Kalamunda, Western Australia
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    Have just found this little gem on the net and will try to find one tomorrow. Looks like it could be the go. Xtraktor 10pce (6-17mm) Damaged Nut, Bolt & Stud Remover Set. #XSB300M
    Thanks for the advice, has been most helpful.
    Shano

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Warrandyte, vic
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    I'm sorry to say that I am glad you are still going with this. I tried to take my starter out about a week after you and it's still there. I got the bottom bolt off, but have run out of patience with the top one.

    Thought I might even try my 12v impact wrench for the wheel nuts but that wouldn't move it either.

    So currently I am driving around with the starter held in by one bolt.

    Better remember to put it back in before I go bush.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    These spiral drive sockets, does anyone know where I can get these?
    yep, i saw them yesterday in geelong. set of 4 in a blister pack. i'm sorry i wasn't paying enough attention to note brand and size range but try ringing qualitool on 03 5221 8915 after 9am monday eastern summer time. ask for david bertouch. he does mail order with c/card but make sure you describe the bolt head as i know they work on gnarled up hex heads but not sure if they do perfectly round items. he will be able to advise. they need about as much all round clearance as a standard socket, maybe just a tad more
    i should declare an interest in that david has given me a day a week as a gopher in the shop during the winter. it's been like working in a candy store!
    mention my name (simon the fireman) if you like and tell him its range rover related and he'll be sympathetic.

    if they work on the job tell us on the forum. i'll get a set myself as my starter hasn't yet troubled me but that means it will do sooner or later......

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    i'm playing catch up on the thread but i'm sure set i saw were a lot less $ than that set you put the link up for.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Kalamunda, Western Australia
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    Thanks for the contact Simon, I will ring him tomorrow and see what sort of price we are talking. I am certainly hoping they will be less than the $149 price tag on that link!! I will definitely put up results on here, so others like Trobbo can maybe solve a problem too.
    Shano

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    G`day ,

    i think it`s like most things once you`ve done it once it`s not so hard .

    The following is mostly only of use if the inside of the heads haven`t be rounded .

    I `ve found , from under the car that if i use an extension with a cut off allen key and a single hex socket the short 1/2 inch breaker bar will do it .

    The bottom usually comes easily ( if tapped with a hammer and the right key used ) so this is mostly for the top one .

    First thing i do is clean out the inside of the head with a screw driver or similar then tap the head of the bolt then tap the cut off allen key into the head of the allen bolt and be as sure as possible it is in as far as it can be ( can be judged by using the lower one ) .

    After i`ve cleaned the head of the bolt out , i jack the drives side front wheel about a foot off the ground and make use of safety stands . This make getting at the starter easier than if the car has both wheels on the ground .

    By using the right length of tools , i`m working just past the end of the starter , i can still feel above the starter and the 1/2 inch drive will take as must effort as i`m able to apply .

    If you have a Prestolite , Magneti Marelli , Lucas ( small size ) starter motor , this will get you into the head of the allen bolt and clear of the starter end . May work on Bosch but won`t on large Lucas ( if you think these small starters are short on room try one of the old big Lucas around 85RR when they went from normal type bolts heads to these allen bolts ) .

    5/16 inch Allen Key ( Good Quality Only ) Cut to be 3 inches long ( approx ).

    5/16 inch or 8mm Single Hex 1/2 inch drive socket ( single hex grips better than double hex )

    6 and 1/2 inches of extensions 1/2 drive

    or for city folk etc , go to Repco etc and ask for a 5/16 half inch drive allen key socket then work your length which will be in the range of 9 and 1/2 inches ..

    3/8 drive and sockets can also be used but the reason i use 1/2 inch is because the diameter of the 1/2 helps to keep everything straight when you apply pressure and the length of the extensions allows for easy use of a hammer on the end .

    Cheers
    Peter

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Warrandyte, vic
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    Thanks for that explanation Peter. Hopefully it will help those that have not done it before.

    I've pulled plenty of starter motors off my vehicles previously (including the current one), so many in fact I had it down to a 15 minute job. Fortunately I have now lost my desire to drive through mud and so dont have the need to change them as often as I used to.

    Unfortunately this one it is stuck.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Newcastle
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    if you still can't get it done by the weekend, your welcome to pop up mine and i'll give you a hand - i've done 3 in the last 9 months and am pretty quick now.
    i think i may also still have a few spare normal head bolts to get rid of those stupid hex head ones
    jason

  10. #20
    d@rk51d3 Guest
    Forget the starter motor.
    You could always resort to using the hand crank.

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