Sorry, non adjustable as they are a deep groove single row ball type bearing. You possibly can fit a lesser radial clearance bearing, say a non C3 type, but I wouldn't.Quote:
Originally Posted by mike 90 RR
JC
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Sorry, non adjustable as they are a deep groove single row ball type bearing. You possibly can fit a lesser radial clearance bearing, say a non C3 type, but I wouldn't.Quote:
Originally Posted by mike 90 RR
JC
Awesome stuff Mike :)
Saturday weather depending I plan to drop back in my engine - I hope it goes just as well as this little job you have done.
Well ... it's been a while since I stuck in the new / second hand Tcase
The vibration was halved with the install ... SO I have been looking in places for the final piece of the drive line to make it disappear :)
The vibration had slowly started to get stronger again :mad:
SO ... Started Saturday by putting it on blocks and testing the driveline with motor running / in gear / looking for the vibration
The rear diff was giving out a "werring" noise .... AR C***p, changed the rear Diff
GO for test drive .... Still have vibration :(
Had enough :mad:
SUNDAY
Dropped the front output shaft housing at Viscos.... and changed the output shaft bearing & seal
GO for test drive .... Now I have only a "hint" of a vibration :) It's still there, but greatly reduced
NOW here's the next "AR C***p" part ...... When I had opened it up (front output shaft housing at Viscos) .... behind the viscos is Another bearing ....
SO .... This other bearing ... IS it just like the one that I just reefed out & replaced???? ... Is it meant to have some play in it just like the one that I replaced????
Cause I have got a funny feeling that this bearing is also a culprit :(
Mike
;)
Mike
I need to open up the one I just bought and check everything. If you want to drop around one night and compare the bearings, your more than welcome too.
I would also pull the bearing out of your old unit and compare them also.
Andrew.
Put new bearings in mine and still has movement on outputs.:mad: I'm sure they all had a bit from new:( I now get a very small vibration at 4000 + rpm in second but can't pick it:(
Thanks AndrewQuote:
Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE
I was going to strip my old box down as I want to make a jig to remove this bearing from the "Front Output shaft housing side" :) .. so i am looking for the pro's & con's on this method ...
The bearing is actually a "carrier bearing" for the "Centre Differential" ... I gave it a jiggle when I had the housing off, and it had play (movement) in it just like the front output shaft bearing had .... Didn't stop & think ;) Is this bearing suppose to have play in it also??? :(
When I put the new bearing in ... it has less play ... NOW this got me thinking
New bearing has less play than that internal carrier bearing of center diff
which = flex on the "joining shaft of Viscos to Diff" .. because the carrier bearing no longers takes the weight / load ... which = vibration
It's a thought at the moment ... that is making sense of the problem at hand
All good
Mike
:)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangier Rover
I know that the bearing is suppose to have play in it ... I am OK with that ... But I feel that the bearings are old and have too much play in them
It's annoying ... But everytime I touch the transferr case .. It changes the habit or the strength of the vibration
And It's not the tail shaft
I realise that this is the TC box that I just installed to replace the other one ... Call it bad luck ... but I think this one has the same problem :(
Oh well ... at least i'm onto it
:)
Well ... It's Saturday and the investigation into "Whats wrong with this box continues"
Dry run on the old box
I pulled the front & rear housings off the old box to see "what goes where"
And ended up looking at the rear output shaft ... No dramas
http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/517...fboxsd8.th.jpg
So onto the new box fitted to my car
So I take off the front output housing ... No dramas at all .. I can see the splines to the center output shaft that go to the rear housing
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/3...tputgk9.th.jpg
ONTO the rear out put housing
Remove brake drum
Disconnect speedo cable
Undo the bolts of housing
Try to remove the housing with shaft
http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/388...tputxa9.th.jpg
NO GO ... The shaft is STUCK inside the spline sleeve of the "Center diff"
Tapping it don't move it .... IT's STUCK :(
It should have fell apart and look like the top picture ... Nooooo ... it's gotta be difficult
Inside the C/D hollow spline is a Bronze ring .... It almost feels as tho this is the culprit .... I just don't know ;) ... My old box fell apart // Didn't do nothing different /// The shaft has slop as it can be moved up & down // IT just won't retract out /// Not even tapping with a hammer .. and that made it jamb up everything ... C/D included // Why's it stuck?? :(
Any Ideas ????????? :(
Mike
:wallbash:
This is the bronze collar .... On revision I may have read it wrong on where this shaft is ... as it maybe the input shaft from gearbox ;)
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/1...ershaftgm9.jpg
This is the shaft of topic that ......
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/5...utshaftjl5.jpg
...... Is stuck in this ;) "Top diagram" in picture
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/2...bearingjb9.jpg
So with shaft stuck firmly in place
Sundays effort
Remove the fan & cowling
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/9...ancoweltr9.jpg
Remove the remainder of exhaust
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/7...mufflerke8.jpg
Wedge the chassie apart to release the unbolted round stiffening X member
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/8...siapartau0.jpg
Unbolted X member dropped on floor
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/847...xmemberbf6.jpg
Place a jack at transfer case to lift it ... to take the weight so you can unbolt the rear rubber mount
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/4...acejackyy4.jpg
Unbolt the mount
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/523...domounthb5.jpg
You will find the cable to electric speedo box on this mount bracket
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/590...icspeedfv2.jpg
You can rest the sump of the transmission on some blocks so you can remove the transfer box
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/573...ovejackrl4.jpg
Before you lower the box on the jack ... MAKE sure you have removed the center console inside the cabin .... AND slipped the rubber boot off the H/L gear selector .... No need to remove any floor plates
ALSO when you let the jack down .... KEEP a eye on the rubber boot on the H/L gear selector .... and the back of the motor for crushing pipes ... etc
THATS THIS SIDE
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
AND THIS SIDE TOO
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
PLUS EVERYWHERE ELSE
Take the bolts off and the box is out ... It's a easy removal .... Me & a mate took it off ... not much weight
This is the Stuck shaft (the rear housing body still attached as the shaft runs through this) // (Drum brake removed)
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/796...ftstucklt2.jpg
& this is the other side of the stuck shaft (Front output // Viscos housing removed)
http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/5...ckshaftyk4.jpg
Just remember .... this is a brief description of how the box was removed
PLEASE consult your Manual on how to do it completely if you attempt anything like this yourself
Now to contemplate what to do next
Mike
;)