Borg T/Case help

without being there to give it a test jiggle and feel..

I suspect that the diff spider gear is the one thats stuck the splines..

try this....

see if you can lock the drive gear or stick the chain to stop the diff from turning. see what happens when you try to turn the rear shaft. if its unexpectedly stiff then the diff may not be happy... in either case, if you can then stop the front sleeve from turning ( the bit that drives the VC) and try again if you get any binding thats the Center diff pretty much US....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

without being there to give it a test jiggle and feel..

I suspect that the diff spider gear is the one thats stuck the splines..

try this....

see if you can lock the drive gear or stick the chain to stop the diff from turning. see what happens when you try to turn the rear shaft. if its unexpectedly stiff then the diff may not be happy... in either case, if you can then stop the front sleeve from turning ( the bit that drives the VC) and try again if you get any binding thats the Center diff pretty much US....

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Tests that I have tried

If you knock the shaft with a hammer ... The shaft moves a touch ... The spider gears bind up .... and feel gritty

If you knock the shaft back to original spot (where it belongs) ... the spider gears run free (good)

I have the original box to compare to
Original box spiders are lumpy to turn
New box spiders are smooth to turn

The box in my mind has to be split to get at the C/D ... As heavy whacking of the shaft may result in a broken casing




I actually think that the "shaft spline" are twisted together at this connection point to the "spider spline" .... IE .. Your referral to "towing caravan can twist the spline" is a very feasible explanation



This jambed shaft explains (in my mind) why it has a vibration that I felt as a "driveline vibe" .... AS the C/D can't "float" on the shaft ... and inturn took out the front output shaft bearing that I replaced

Yes ... That bearing was knackered.... Suspected by me & confirmed by of all places ... A british motor bike restoration shop :) // Nice folks .. that are mad keen on Nortons etc :cool: Face it .... if you want knowledge on British parts ... Go to folks who are engineers in this stuff ...




Thanking you Dave and others .... Haven't run out of options yet ... will be making phone calls


All good

Mike

:)

if the center shaft spline that engages the spider has shot itself you might be able to work it by splitting the case...

however

your shaft and as a minimum the rear outputs shaft spider will be RS... if one spider is RS you should replace them all...

Dont evny you on this one, Im officially sticking it in either the "you should return it and get the money back" or "its something that only goes on the back of an auto, Im not touching it" catagory. However Im still going to flag it as a "be interesting to see what develops...


Best of luck.
You'll need it

It occurs to me that seeing you are having problems with areas of your B/W that are not known to be troublesome, the odds are you have lots of wear in the areas that are known to wear , ie the chain, output shaft and VC.

Have you ascertained the cost of a rebuilt unit landed from Ashcroft?
It seems to me that you will be chasing your tail forever with this.
Regards Philip A

to bad your not ont he gold coast :D, as I have two viscous cases (three if you include the one in fluffy) that you could have used for bits and peices and to compare. Both are in ok condition as far as I am aware.

But good luck with it, Is there any chance of asking for money back? Have you even spoke with the supplier of the replacement box?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

It occurs to me that seeing you are having problems with areas of your B/W that are not known to be troublesome, the odds are you have lots of wear in the areas that are known to wear , ie the chain, output shaft and VC.

Have you ascertained the cost of a rebuilt unit landed from Ashcroft?
It seems to me that you will be chasing your tail forever with this.
Regards Philip A

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AND iI still haven't caught it :p In hindsight ... I would agree BIGTIME that going the Ashcroft way is the go ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Grimace

to bad your not ont he gold coast :D, as I have two viscous cases (three if you include the one in fluffy) that you could have used for bits and peices and to compare. Both are in ok condition as far as I am aware.

But good luck with it, Is there any chance of asking for money back? Have you even spoke with the supplier of the replacement box?

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I made the phone calls ... mailed the pictures ... and could only describe their concern and action as "a bit cold" ... Being 3500 k's away makes it hard

A replacement box was offered ... but how could I say this /// once bitten twice shy

I will be following up on this tho ... I just need to resolve the problem ... then I will follow thru

Not happy Jan

Mike

:mad:

Have still got this vibration (Between the 40 to 50 kph mark) and it has come down to 2 things left

Front propshaft or Viscos unit

So tomorrow I am sending the propshaft in to get it checked for balance
AND IF HAT don't work

I have to install a new viscos



I know you can test the viscos unit for seizure ..... How "big is the bar" & "method" to confirm that it is seized (I am getting close to the wire on this one as there is nothing else to repair)



I have up todate
Replaced all front end rubbers // Checked diffs / axles / CV's / etc
And all engine / gearbox mounts
T/C output shaft & bearings

++++++++ and the rest

Mike

:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

Have still got this vibration (Between the 40 to 50 kph mark) and it has come down to 2 things left

Front propshaft or Viscos unit

So tomorrow I am sending the propshaft in to get it checked for balance
AND IF HAT don't work

I have to install a new viscos



I know you can test the viscos unit for seizure ..... How "big is the bar" & "method" to confirm that it is seized (I am getting close to the wire on this one as there is nothing else to repair)



I have up todate
Replaced all front end rubbers // Checked diffs / axles / CV's / etc
And all engine / gearbox mounts
T/C output shaft & bearings

++++++++ and the rest

Mike

:)

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I have only 2 viscos unit seizures and did not cause any vibration. Just had bad fuel economy, tyre chirp on hard turns and one eventuated to a cv failure.

At 40 to 50 kms sure does sound drive line. As tyres, alighnment, shocks come in at around 80 KMH.

Have you tried pulling front then rear drive shaft off and going for a short run.
Don't do this to much and go easy or viscos will spit.
The viscos seem drag hard so takes some force to make it give.
I'd say if your red in the face and it won't move a bit you may have a dead viscos.
Tony

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

I have only 2 viscos unit seizures and did not cause any vibration. Just had bad fuel economy, tyre chirp on hard turns and one eventuated to a cv failure.

At 40 to 50 kms sure does sound drive line. As tyres, alighnment, shocks come in at around 80 KMH.

Have you tried pulling front then rear drive shaft off and going for a short run.
Don't do this to much and go easy or viscos will spit.
The viscos seem drag hard so takes some force to make it give.
I'd say if your red in the face and it won't move a bit you may have a dead viscos.
Tony

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Thanks Tony

I'm not getting these signs with mine at all Quote .. Just had bad fuel economy, tyre chirp on hard turns and one eventuated to a cv failure.

I could fill up the rest of this page on "how many times I have done a repair" that didn't work "and then dropped the front shaft" just to check

Every time I made "1" repair ... I would then go for A drive .... didn't fix it .... On to the next repair :( ... I'm doing it this way so I can identify WHAT was the culprit

I have taken a mountain of photos of the repairs, that i'm gonna post up when all this is done



Hoping to get some more comments on the signs of a seized viscos :(

Mike

:)

Hi Mike, The checking procedure is actually quite easy, just put the transmission in neutral, apply the park brake firmly, jack up a front wheel and try to rotate it using the wheel brace on one of the nuts. It should turn ever so slowly with some effort.

If you find that it won't turn, and when releasing the wheel brace the wheel springs back, then the VC is siezed.

JC