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Thread: Borg T/Case help

  1. #31
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    Really? pretty sure its all known about
    Fairly sure .... But I'm learning


    (sometimes the hard way )

  2. #32
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    Fairly sure .... But I'm learning


    (sometimes the hard way )
    Oh you meant you, just when you wrote "there is" I thought you meant around here

  3. #33
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    Oh you meant you, just when you wrote "there is" I thought you meant around here
    Yep ... i am the "Grasshopper" here

  4. #34
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    Yep ... i am the "Grasshopper" here
    Ah.... It's not so bad. There are plenty of us
    Tony

  5. #35
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Well ...Got the Transferr case .... Installing tomorow morning

    Q .... The oil for it is .... Dexron 11 .... Can't buy it, so I using .... Dexron 111 Is this OK??

  6. #36
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    Yers its OK.
    I use Transmax Z which I had left over but probably overkill if changed regularly.
    Regards Philip A

  7. #37
    Join Date
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    yep, dexrons and brake fluids are backwards compatable.

    if you use a higher number than specified your safe...
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #38
    mike 90 RR Guest

    It's in

    Job done

    I would like to thank all for the information on this fix

    I had installed a low K second hand box .... Changed the seal at back of the Auto & the seal to input side of transfer box

    Dramas were the following ...
    1 .. Snapped 3 studs on the bottom of the R/H side exhaust manifold
    Took manifold off motor and drilled em out & replaced with new (easy job)

    2 .. Who invented the "ease of removal" of the tailshaft bolts
    YOU try this at home .... ground the cr#p of the sides of a small ring spanner to fit it in (only time I swore)

    Main vibration & bearing noise has gone

    BUT ... I still have a little vibration left .... The output shaft on the new box has a bit more play when compared to my old box .... Is it worth it to take it to a LR mechanic to adjust it (as in ; to remove any excess play / vibration)

    Mike


  9. #39
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    Job done

    I would like to thank all for the information on this fix

    I had installed a low K second hand box .... Changed the seal at back of the Auto & the seal to input side of transfer box

    Dramas were the following ...
    1 .. Snapped 3 studs on the bottom of the R/H side exhaust manifold
    Took manifold off motor and drilled em out & replaced with new (easy job)

    2 .. Who invented the "ease of removal" of the tailshaft bolts
    YOU try this at home .... ground the cr#p on sides a small ring spanner (only time I swore)

    Main vibration & bearing noise has gone

    BUT ... I still have a little vibration left .... The output shaft on the new box has a bit more play when compared to my old box .... Is it worth it to take it to a LR mechanic to adjust it (as in ; to remove any excess play / vibration)

    Mike


    Mike, Excessive front output shaft play can be due to the front bearing being worn, and the spline into the VU flogged out on the shaft itself. The front output brg has a high radial clearance anyway, IE it is loose even when new. They have to be pretty bad to want to replace them. The shafts wear on the splines where they go into the viscous unit, it may well be worth removing both and comparing them, maybe end up refitting the old one into the new box/ viscous unit with a new brg?
    This can be done In situ easily with circlip pliers and a slide hammer to extract the old bearing and shaft from the housing.Use a drift to refit. You WILL need a new output seal though.
    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  10. #40
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Mike, Excessive front output shaft play can be due to the front bearing being worn, and the spline into the VU flogged out on the shaft itself. The front output brg has a high radial clearance anyway, IE it is loose even when new. They have to be pretty bad to want to replace them. The shafts wear on the splines where they go into the viscous unit, it may well be worth removing both and comparing them, maybe end up refitting the old one into the new box/ viscous unit with a new brg?
    This can be done In situ easily with circlip pliers and a slide hammer to extract the old bearing and shaft from the housing.Use a drift to refit. You WILL need a new output seal though.
    JC


    The new "Low K box"
    The box came from the "Supply folks in South Australia" ..... The spline of the output shaft to the Viscos was all perfect in fit (no slop) .... The box felt REAL good overall ..... As I had my original box to compare to

    Only that bearing had a bit more play than my original,

    The "small vibration" (tail shaft speed) .. (but not as strong / violent as the original problem) could be felt at the 50/60 mark .... but at 110 .... smooth as a babies bottom



    My old box as far as usable parts?? ... Naaa, on it's last legs overall ... Splines all shot / all sloppy fit



    Just would like to adjust that front output shaft bearing to a closer tolerance


    Mike


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