Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 21

Thread: patrol shocks

  1. #1
    2door grover Guest

    patrol shocks

    I have been doing some reading about setting up my rover and i think the 4" patrol shocks will do what i want. Will give me more drop and i can set the car up with a little lift so its stable on angles The problem is i can't find a pic of the pin eye adapter so i have a rough idea of what to make.

    if any one has a pic please post it up.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Rye or cranbourne
    Posts
    432
    Total Downloaded
    0
    hi mate i have 2 inch gq with adaptors in the rear will take a pic in a minute,dont know how 4 inch would go with up travel as my 2 inch is crazy flex,the front use 80series toyota as they are pin to pin same as rover and fit right in
    cheers mick

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    14,147
    Total Downloaded
    99.87 MB
    You may also consider 12" travel shocks which will be similar.

    Here is an adaptor from Rovertym in the US

    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Rye or cranbourne
    Posts
    432
    Total Downloaded
    0
    thats the ones saves me getting under the disco to get a pic thanks slunnie

  5. #5
    2door grover Guest
    I was looking at the patrol 4" because they are pretty cheap ($550 a set of procomps) and i want to lift the car 2" and bumpstop space it so it has about 50-80 mm up travel(when loaded up) and has heaps of drop.

    that mount is as simple as they come I was thinking i was going have to fab up a new mount to bolt to the chassis that would lift up the top shock mount.

    Mickashay i would still like to see the flex the 2" shocks give if that's not to much trouble.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Rye or cranbourne
    Posts
    432
    Total Downloaded
    0
    heres a shot and a vid,i have my 2 inch springs tied in now but havent maxed out my shock yet,in the pic i still have about another few inches of shock to go,mines a disco but same setup to rangie


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    14,147
    Total Downloaded
    99.87 MB
    If you're retained, then there isn't any benefit in running a shock that is too long, because you lose uptravel.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    14,147
    Total Downloaded
    99.87 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by 2door grover View Post
    I was looking at the patrol 4" because they are pretty cheap ($550 a set of procomps) and i want to lift the car 2" and bumpstop space it so it has about 50-80 mm up travel(when loaded up) and has heaps of drop.

    that mount is as simple as they come I was thinking i was going have to fab up a new mount to bolt to the chassis that would lift up the top shock mount.

    Mickashay i would still like to see the flex the 2" shocks give if that's not to much trouble.
    Don't forget to include the space measurement when specing up your shocks. This is for open and closed lengths so you can also adjust the bumpstop heights to suit your setup.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  9. #9
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Works a treat. I have them in my 2 Door. You will need to move the top mounts up and forward + dislocation cones + Turn T piece on brake pipe up + step A frame ball joint down 2" and axe the Boge load leveling thing to get full use of the shock.

    It will flex




    Tony
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #10
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    Works a treat. I have them in my 2 Door. You will need to move the top mounts up and forward + dislocation cones + Turn T piece on brake pipe up + step A frame ball joint down 2" and axe the Boge load leveling thing to get full use of the shock.
    It will flex
    Tony

    Luv the flex ...

    When you cut the Boge level unit ... You still kept that big knuckle joint connection to the diff tho ?? ... (To keep the diff in position) cause that seems to be missing in the photo

    When you killed the Boge .. were their any "downsides" to it

    Mike


Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!